Tokyo | johnliddlephotography

February 13, 2015
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Concrete Buildings

Concrete must surely have a claim to being the most important and indispensable building material of modern times. Its ubiquity is, however, not met with universal acclaim, with opinions varying along the spectrum of beautiful to ugly in relation to its contribution to our streetscapes and urban environments.

I will leave individuals to decide where they stand on this subject and perhaps, like me; you find examples of each within your local environments.

Concrete is, however, the common factor between the photos chosen for this post, which grew from my desire to share a few photographs of a rather interesting house in Harajuku (Tokyo). The shots are by no means an attempt to document the range of concrete structures one finds in Japan – they are simply shots of buildings that appealed to me.

The Harajuku Wedge is my name for the building shown by pics 1 to 4. It was a few minutes walk from where I was living and I remember my first view being the angle shown at pic 1, where it looked more like a freestanding wall. As one moves around to behold the view shown at pic 2, the shape changes from a sliver to a wedge and clearly becomes a residence cleverly utilising a small footprint. The dominant use of concrete is further seen from the detail pics (3 and 4), where the use of other materials and plantings soften the raw harshness of the concrete. I never tired of looking at this building on my walks and for me; it serves as a good example of innovative architecture.

The Nagano Cube (pic 5) may lack the visual impact of the Harajuku Wedge, but it begs the question of whether it represents an emerging style in a country where space is always in short supply. Cubes tend to be divisive in architectural terms and are another of those “love or hate” design options. Nevertheless, the style maximises space; would appear to be energy efficient judging from the array of solar panels on the roof; and seemed to blend reasonably well with its neighbours.

A different look altogether is what I called Asakusa Chic (pic 6) where the use of industrial materials, including concrete, have been used to create a residence that integrated nicely with its residential/industrial neighbourhood. I wish I could have seen inside, as I distinctly remember wondering if this may have been the Tokyo equivalent of warehouse conversions. My final Tokyo inclusion is a Ryotei (high class restaurant often involving entertainment by Geisha) in Mukojima (pic 7), an area of Tokyo where older style buildings can be found due to the area being less heavily bombed during World War 2. Whilst the building presents as rather conventional, its style is nevertheless distinctly Japanese and consistent with the generally discreet external appearance of such establishments.

Downtown Osaka (pic 8) was shot from my apartment window and perhaps most clearly shows the ubiquity of concrete, as well as the boxy, space efficient styling. Despite this, I still find the view interesting and to borrow a friend’s observation, the colourful billboards and street advertising found in Asian countries brings life to otherwise bland scenes. The second Osaka image (pic 9) is a building in the Dotonbori area, where the more fluid shapes within the external steel staircase adds an (almost) art deco feel to an otherwise plain concrete structure.

To conclude this little sojourn into the world of concrete, pic 11 was shot at Kyoto’s Garden of Fine Arts. In reality the name is somewhat misleading in that the garden has no plant life, nor does one find works of fine art. Instead one enters an imaginative space where popular works of art have been reproduced within an open-air gallery of concrete, steel and glass, which perhaps will become the subject of a future post.

Is there a moral to this post? Well, to be honest, it started as a simple desire to share shots of a building that caught my eye and held my interest, but morphed into something a little more. As a material, concrete can rightly be described as dull, boring, bland, plain and any other number of similarly uncomplimentary terms. It has, however, become our building block and when used imaginatively has the potential to add interest and beauty to our lives. It reminds me of an old saying that: “a good tradesman never blames his tools”.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Harajuku Wedge – pic 1

Harajuku Wedge

Harajuku Wedge – pic 3

Harajuku Wedge – pic 4

Nagano Cube

Asakusa Chic

Ryotei in Mukojima

Downtown Osaka

Dotonbori Stairs

Kyoto – Garden of Fine Arts

January 24, 2015
by johnliddlephotography 8 Comments

Meiji Jingu Shrine

A short walk from Harajuku Station, one passes through a magnificent Torii gate (pics 1 and 2) marking the entrance to the Meiji Jingu Shrine – Tokyo’s most significant Shinto shrine. Flanked by impressive Cypress Pines, one then enjoys a pleasant walk crossing a small stream via an arched pedestrian bridge (pic 3) and passing through two more large torii on the way to the main shrine complex (pic 4) cocooned within a forested area of 175 acres.

By this time the concrete, steel and glass environs of the Tokyo metropolis is out of mind and mostly out of sight. One’s attention is drawn to the classic form and the elemental materials used in the construction of the main shrine building (pic 5), arguably enhanced by the appearance through the misty rain of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office building in nearby Shinjuku. This is a leviathan of a building, yet the old and new form symmetry so often found in Japan.

Meiji Jingu was established in 1920 to deify the spirits of Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. During the Meiji era of 1868 to 1912, the modern Japan was born, with a focus on building international relationships and improving the prosperity and peace of the nation. Whilst it is somewhat natural to think of this period in terms of modernization and westernization, it is worth remembering that Empress Shoken is recognised as the model of the modern Japanese woman.

Sadly the original shrine building was destroyed by allied bombings in 1945, with rebuilding completed in 1958, largely through public donations, with such support demonstrating the importance of Meiji Jingu to the Japanese people.

For non-Japanese it can be difficult to gain an appreciation of shrines, especially compared to Japanese temples where the buildings and grounds are often more inviting, though it must be said that shrines are often found within temple complexes. In my experience, shrines are best appreciated during ceremonies or periods such as in early January when people flock to Meiji Jingu to worship and buy good-luck charms for the year ahead. As in all cultures, ceremony and the associated emotions speak their own language.

The accompanying photographs were taken around the main shrine building at different times on dry and rainy days. Those who have visited Japan will be familiar with the Ema Plaques (pic 10); small wooden tablets that can be purchased at most shrines and left hanging with one’s prayers or wishes. I have also taken the opportunity to share a few more shots of a Shinto Wedding party (pics 12 to 14) taken on an unfortunately wet day. However, the weather did not detract from their spirits and as can be seen from pics 15 and 16, all one needs is a good umbrella.

In conclusion, there is a question I cannot resist posing. Meiji Jingu is one of several large forested parks one finds around Tokyo that provide welcome respite and serve as green lungs within the metropolis. One wonders if today’s city planners around the world would be generous enough and brave enough to deny developers’ pressures to create similar green lungs.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Torii at entrance – pic 1

Torii at entrance – pic 2

Bridge over stream

Final Torii

Old and New

Inner view – pic 1

Inner view – pic 2

Inner view of Heian Shrine

Lantern

Ema Plaques

Shrine official

Shinto wedding – pic 1

Shinto wedding – pic 2

Shinto wedding – pic 3

Keeping Dry

Walking in the rain

August 2, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Harajuku Lebels

In my last post we took a stroll through Harajuku and today we visit the Harajuku Lebels at play.

Last time the stroll started by exiting Harajuku Station and walking straight ahead and down Takeshita Street. Today we turn right after exiting the station and head up the hill towards Yoyogi Park, another of the expansive green spaces one finds within the Tokyo metropolis and an extremely popular venue at weekends for people of all ages.

Near the park entry one finds the Harajuku Lebels, who have staked out their play, or should I say performance space for the day. The Lebels are a group of Rockabillies who put on their own rock and roll dancing show to the sounds of old Elvis and other rock classics. I don’t know what they do during the week, though a Japanese person in the crowd told me they are mostly Salarymen who don their Lebels gear at weekends and transform into their 1960’s personas.

They attract a crowd; yet don’t appear to play to the crowd. In fact, they appear to be totally enclosed in their own little magic circle that becomes their world for a few hours at a time. They dance with each other and for each other. Moves are taught and practiced and the camaraderie within the group is evident. Performances have an impromptu, almost jazz like feel to them. Dancers doing a solo routine will be joined by others, from which choreography equivalent to session musicians jamming will emerge.

Black is the preferred colour, most aptly captured at pic 2 where the young woman’s long black hair complements the black on black look perfectly. However, black is not compulsory, as one can see from several photos featuring the tattooed dancer in blue jeans, who seemed to be, if not the leader, the dominant player within the group. As in all areas of life, dominance Invites challenge and in this case, the dancer featured in pics 3 and 4, who, to my inexpert eye, was the best dancer of the day, gave the impression of staking his claim in a friendly way.

Dancing is hot work and the group worked their way steadily through a lot of beer in their own unique style. Beers were distributed by one dancer opening a can and throwing it in a high arc to another dancer who, except for one mishap, would expertly catch the can and quench their thirst. As you may imagine a lot of beer was spilt in the process.

I couldn’t help noticing a couple of other things. Firstly, several of the dancers had wallets or other items in their back pockets (as in pic 13). This is not an unusual sight in Japan, whereas in most places it would be akin to an invitation to be robbed. Secondly, the dancers were doing it purely for their personal enjoyment and nowhere around their magical circle was there hats or tins to collect donations from spectators. Even watching a group of Rockabillies contains cultural messages.

Apart from references already made to some photographs, the selections speak for themselves – a group of friends having fun doing what they enjoy and entertaining others in the process. Sounds like a win/win.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Waiting in the wings

Lady in Black

Rocker 1 – pic 1

Rocker 1 – pic 2

Rocker 2 – pic 1

Rocker 2 – pic 2

Choreography advice – not

Watch me strut

Splits attempt – pic 1

Splits attempt – pic 2

Playing air guitar

Dancing shoes

Taking a break – pic 1

Taking a break – pic 2

Taking a break – pic 3

Big Finale – pic 1

Big Finale – pic 2

Big Finale – pic 3

Big Finale – pic 4

Fans

July 19, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Harajuku

I first heard of Harajuku long before I visited Japan through the term Harajuku girls. The term is used to describe those (predominantly teenage girls) who enjoy dressing in theatrical costumes to take on the aura of real or fictional characters.

In the past Harajuku was a gathering point for this genre, particularly at weekends and although they are still to be seen, it would seem the popularity of garish dressing is on the decline. The area’s popularity inevitably attracted the attention of large international chain stores, which now compete with the edgier independent fashion stores for the patronage of the fashion and trend-conscious youth market. Nevertheless, Harajuku remains very much a youth oriented area and a major hub for youth culture and fashion.

Geographically, Harajuku is a relatively small area roughly covering the area between Harajuku Station and Omotesando, a more up-market area where one can find many high-end luxury brands. At this point, I should acknowledge that those who know Tokyo well would recognise that some of the photographs in this post are within Omotesando. However, geographic boundaries are often blurry and they are included as being more Harajuku in style.

Most people travel there by train and the first view is from the station platform (pic 1) looking directly down Takeshita Street, the must-see inclusion in any visit to Harajuku. Exiting the station, follow the pedestrian crossing (pics 2 & 3) directly to Takeshita Street, which is really more of a laneway with shops (pics 4 to 6) on either side. Be prepared for a crowd if visiting on a weekend (pic 7), though during the week there is more room to move (pics 8 & 9).

It’s a good place for people watching and one encounters interesting casts of characters such as those in pic 8. There is the Salaryman in his business suit seemingly interested in nothing but his mobile phone; the young attractive woman presumably wanting to be noticed and the young guy on the left who maybe doesn’t want to be noticed. This assortment of characters is typical of Tokyo where, no matter what an area’s dominant demographic might be; one invariably finds a cross-section of people from different walks of life, including those with interesting pets (pic 11).

The area also has entertaining buildings worth a second look. We often hear that land is scarce in Tokyo and perhaps one should not be too surprised to find a three-level café built from (or at least inspired by) shipping containers (pics 12 & 13).

Another standout building is The Watari Museum of Contemporary Art (pics 14 & 15), one of Tokyo’s leading contemporary art galleries. I recall turning my head when I first drove past in a taxi upon my arrival and immediately made a mental note to find the place again. As well as attracting attention to the Museum, one must applaud their promotion of art in this way. If one is wondering what the faces are looking at, the answer is on the other side of the street (pic 16). By the way, pics 16 to 18 are what I meant by Harajuku style in Omotesando.

To conclude this little walk through Harajuku I could not resist snapping the photographer on an overpass setting up his large frame camera (pic 19). What was he photographing? The Sunday afternoon crowds outside Harajuku Station of course (pic 20).

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Takeshita Street from Station Platform

Harajuku Station Crossing – pic 1

Harajuku Station Crossing – pic 2

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 1

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 2

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 3

Takeshita Street on a Sunday afternoon

Takeshita Street on a weekday – pic 1

Takeshita Street on a weekday – pic 2

People passing by

A Pet’s day out

3 level container cafe – pic 1

3 level container cafe – pic 2

Watari Museum – pic 1

Watari Museum – pic 2

Looking back at Watari

Simple shapes & colours

Place of rest

Capturing the shot

Sunday afternoon outside Harajuku Station

July 12, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Ginza (part 2)

In part 2 of my post on Ginza I’d like to show there is more to Ginza than beautifully presented stores selling up-market products. Where better to start than with a Ginza institution, Meida-Ya (pics 1 and 2).

Meida-Ya is an up-market grocery store (established in 1885) whose headquarters and flagship store is located in Ginza. Operating under the motto of “The Highest Quality for Everyone Everytime”, the business now operates a network of 12 stores across the Tokyo metropolis and 14 stores elsewhere in Japan, as well as two international stores in Amsterdam and Singapore. A visit to their Ginza store will show adherence to their motto, not to mention the temptation to try some of the goodies on offer.

Despite the dominating impact of the big name brands, there is still room for independent operators to cater to those shoppers looking for individuality and quirkiness. I was quite taken by the two shops shown at pic 3, one catering for a young contemporary market and the other specializing in kimono – the most traditional of Japanese clothing. The birdcage and the coolest umbrella stand (made from a converted violin) (pic 4) draw attention to the store and add further to its individuality.

Those wishing to preserve their credit cards can also find more reasonably priced goods by exploring the quieter side and backstreets, as shown by the small footwear store at pics 5 and 6.

Art galleries are quite numerous in the Ginza area and art lovers could easily spend an interesting day wandering the streets and enjoying the exhibitions on offer. What one finds is naturally dependent on the exhibitions at any given time, though one is likely to find work ranging from jovial Buddhas (pic 8) to antiquities (pic 9). One may even come across some mobile installation art, such as Ugueno (pic 7) parked curbside. I am unsure what the work represents, but I believe it may be an alternative and highly contrasting form of flower arrangement. Whatever the message, it was noticed on the streets of Ginza.

Ginza’s shops and offices support a large workforce, thus creating a demand for bars and restaurants where workers may relax and unwind. Pics 12 to 18 show a sample of the bars and eateries, many of which can be found in Ginza’s quieter streets and laneways.

Walking around Japanese streets, one cannot help but notice the distinctive manhole covers. Rather than cheap, nondescript covers, one frequently comes across eye-catching, decorative covers that enhance the streetscape, such as the cover captured at pic 19. It seems to me that applying this level of attention to such a utilitarian item is yet another way to create pride in local neighbourhoods.

To prove that Ginza is not all gleam and glitter, I have chosen to end this two-part post with pic 20 – a photograph of rubbish awaiting collection. Yes, even Ginza needs to dispose of its rubbish, but as can be seen, it too is very tidy and well organised.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Meida-Ya at Ginza – pic 1

Meida-Ya at Ginza – pic 2

Ginza contemporary & traditional

Cool umbrella stand

More affordable footwear

Non designer label shoes

Ugueno

Ginza Galleries – Jovial Buddha

Ginza Galleries – Antiquity

Ginza Galleries – exhibition promotion

Popular transportation mode

After work drinks

Laneway Bar at Ginza

Shark Bar entry

Ginza Eateries – pic 1

Ginza Eateries – pic 2

Ginza Eateries – pic 3

Ginza Eateries – pic 4

Chuo City Manhole Cover

Even Ginza has rubbish

July 5, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Ginza (part 1)

The young woman (pic 1) exiting Ginza Station is about to emerge at the famous Ginza Crossing, the heart of Ginza and probably the most expensive real estate in Tokyo.

In English, Ginza translates to silver mint and was indeed the location for a silver-coin mint built in 1612. At that time the area was vastly different from today with its traditional wooden buildings and narrow streets. Two events impacted significantly on its transformation, namely the enlightenment of the Meiji Restoration period and the great fire of 1872. Decisions to adopt brick and stone as building materials and the widening of Chuo-dori from 15 to 27 metres, thus created Tokyo’s first boulevard and provided the foundation for the nation’s entrepreneurs to create the Ginza we know today.

Ginza Crossing or, to be more correct, the Ginza 4-chome intersection, is the area’s hub. On one corner is the San-ai building (pics 2 and 3), a tubular glass building housing a variety of businesses, as well as prominent advertising signage. Le Café Doutor occupies the first two levels, with the upper level being an excellent vantage point for people watching over coffee. Unfortunately, the best seats are in the smoking area, so I have not had the pleasure of lingering there to enjoy the view.

The WAKO Department Store with its famous Seiko clock atop the building dominates another corner. This is perhaps the most recognised of the Crossing’s corners (pics 4 and 5) and WAKO has enjoyed loyal patronage since its inception in 1868.

Diagonally opposite WAKO on the third corner is the Nissan Gallery (pic 6), a somewhat unusual yet interesting space where one can peruse displays of Nissan’s latest vehicles. Nissan’s head office is also located in Ginza, thus reminding us that the area is a business centre and not just a retail and entertainment hub.

The fourth corner is occupied by the Mitsukoshi Department Store, which I understand is the oldest of Japan’s major department stores and the starting point for the Mitsui Group, which operates globally across a range of diverse industries. During my visits to Japan I formed a liking for Mitsukoshi over the other major stores and it is somewhat embarrassing not to have a photograph to round out the four corners. It’s on the list for next time.

If one was to include the word Ginza in a word association test, one suspects a frequent response would be “shopping” or similar terms. There is no question that it deserves its place among the world’s great shopping and entertainment precincts, as can be appreciated from the brand names at pics 9 to 21. This is not an exhaustive coverage, but suffices to demonstrate the esteem in which Ginza is held among the world’s top designers and popular global brands.

One of my favourite photos is pic 7, where two generations under the protective cover of their brollies pass on the sidewalk. Each group seems immersed in their own conversations, though I find it amusing that the older ladies have the more colourful brollies.

In this post I have focused on showing glimpses of the well-known Ginza and without the stores depicted here, there would be no Ginza as we popularly think of it. However, there is more than glitz and glitter to Ginza and in my next post I will share some images taken around the area’s quieter streets.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Ginza Crossing – Exit A3

Ginza Crossing – San-ai building

Ginza Crossing – San-ai building at night

Ginza Crossing – WAKO building

Ginza Crossing – WAKO building at night

Ginza Crossing – view from Nissan Gallery

Generations under brollies

Ginza – workers at end of day

Armani at Ginza

Cartier at Ginza

Chanel at Ginza – pic 1

Chanel at Ginza – pic 2

De Beers building at Ginza

Dior at Ginza

GAP at Ginza

Lanvin at Ginza

Mikimoto at Ginza

POLA building at Ginza

Swarovski at Ginza

Yamaha at Ginza

ZARA at Ginza

June 24, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Geisha Blur

Blur is not a word one normally associates with geisha, yet it aptly describes my most valued sightings of geisha from dusk onwards when their focus is getting to their next appointment. This is their busy time and in an evening with several bookings, time is money and they are ladies in a hurry. Sightings can be a “where did she come from?” experience as they pass in a blur of colourful elegance, appearing to float above the pavement with their short, quick steps.

Pics 1 to 3 are examples of geisha blur, all shot in Kyoto’s Gion district. Sadly the Geiko shown in pics 1 and 2 show signs of unwanted attention and it was disappointing to witness the lack of respect shown by many people obstructing their path and popping flashes to get the souvenir shot. Nevertheless, their grace shines through. I did not travel with a flash unit and was happy to record the blur, nor did I elect to join in chasing, which is why pic 3 shows a Maiko moving away. It is unfortunate that a frontal shot was blocked, as she was the most beautiful Maiko I saw. However, there is a certain pleasure in accepting blur as the trade-off for retaining one’s dignity. (I guess a career as paparazzi is out of the question.)

To stay with this theme, one must understand that geisha are celebrities with a difference. Their celebrity is an inheritance from being the current custodians of a traditional entertainment form unique to Japan. Indeed, in my opinion, geisha represent Japan’s most recognisable icon. Unlike western celebrities who seemingly crave attention, geisha go about their business in a quieter, more refined manner. However, their time-honoured practice of walking to appointments means that they are frequently exposed to an adoring and curious public.

Much has been written about the world of geisha, yet so much remains unknown. Retaining an element of mystery and intrigue is essential, but I would like to touch on one aspect that tends to be somewhat overlooked.

A general perception of Japan is that of a male dominated society and there is much to support this perception. Yet the geisha culture challenges this perception. The world of geisha is female dominated, with men occupying specific roles such as dressing, where strength is required to perfectly arrange a geisha’s apparel. The okiya within which geisha live and train under the guidance of an Okasan (mother) is exclusively female and most importantly, the Tea Houses (ochaya) where geisha entertain have traditionally been female owned and operated. I find it fascinating that this most feminine of Japanese cultures has emerged from a male dominated society and whilst geisha do not openly associate with feminism, their achievement is significant.

Pics 5 to 7 are of a young Maiko in Kyoto during the cherry blossom season. I gained the impression that she was somewhat uncomfortable in the public spotlight and perhaps she had not yet realised her powers.

Pics 8 and 9 are of a Tokyo geisha, shot in the late afternoon on her way to a nearby ochaya. Tokyo geisha are more elusive than their Kyoto counterparts and these shots were my reward for several hours spent wandering the streets of Mukojima. It was an enjoyable time as Mukojima is one of Tokyo’s older areas and although my primary focus was to see geisha, the area is interesting in its own right. After wandering for some time, I came across an area that simply felt right and decided to hang around for a while. (Maybe there is a bit of paparazzi in me after all.) A short time later, I heard the distinctive clip clopping and jangling sounds and there she was coming in my direction. My satisfaction with the day’s shoot was heightened after speaking with some Tokyo residents who advised that many people live for years in Tokyo without ever seeing geisha. Maybe I got lucky.

The final photograph (pic 10) of the older woman in kimono was taken shortly after pics 8 and 9. The wrapped object the lady is holding is a shamisen, a stringed Japanese instrument, which she plays as accompaniment for geisha performing dances. I would have liked to know if she had once been geisha, but alas, my Japanese language skills were inadequate.

It is always a special experience when one encounters geisha, whose numbers are unfortunately declining. One hopes this decline can be arrested and their place in Japan’s traditional art forms can be forever ensured. There are traditions that should never be lost. Geisha is one such tradition.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Two Geiko in Kyoto

Pink Geiko rushing by

Blurred Beauty

Geisha Poster

Gion Maiko – pic 1

Gion Maiko – pic 2

Gion Maiko – pic 3

Tokyo Geisha – pic 1

Tokyo Geisha – pic 2

Shamisen Player

June 3, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 6 Comments

Shinto Weddings

The best pleasures are those of the unexpected variety, such as I experienced on a visit to Kamakura’s Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. One is always drawn to a crowd and in this instance, a crowd had gathered around the Maiden (an open sided stage or pavilion) in front of the stairway leading to the main hall. Drawing closer it became apparent that, purely by luck, I was about to witness my first Shinto wedding ceremony.

As with western-style ceremonies the centre of attraction is the bride, as one will surely appreciate from the accompanying photographs. The ceremony itself is symbolic and does not legally confer marriage. This takes place previously via a civil ceremony in accordance with Japanese law.

Happening across the Kamakura wedding conducted in public was most fortunate, as most Shinto wedding ceremonies are conducted within the private areas of shrines, thus the public can only view the participants before and after. Nevertheless, it is a sight I would never tire of and I could quite happily spend my weekends photographing Shinto weddings. (Bookings will be gratefully accepted haha.)

As with many things Japanese, the ceremony and the costumes communicate a link to past traditions – a link further emphasised by the historic significance of the shrines within which the weddings take place. The locations for these photographs, the Hachimangu Shrine at Kamakura and Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu, are each steeped in history and are highly significant sites in their own right.

The brides wear exclusively white garments – a colour associated with purity in Japan, with the only exception appearing to be adornments worn in their hair. In ages past, I understand that brides would paint their faces and arms white, as do geisha, though this practice is no longer followed. The bridal kimono is intricately embroidered in patterns of the bride’s choosing, though the patterns do seem to draw heavily on symbols from nature. Perhaps the most striking part of the costume is the wataboshi, the large oval shaped hood intended to conceal the bride’s face to everyone except the groom. Whilst I don’t think it succeeds in this respect, the wataboshi is undoubtedly elegant and adds an air of mystery. For viewers who may be wondering, of the five brides shown in the photographs, four were wearing wigs.

I will now allow the pictures to tell the story. Pics 1 to 5 are shots from the Kamakura wedding and pics 6 to 17 were taken on a rather wet and cold afternoon at Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu, where a number of weddings were taking place.

Of the four brides photographed at Meiji Jingu, it was interesting to observe their different personalities. The first bride (pic 6) was ebullient and radiated happiness and joy. The second bride (pics 7 to 9) was simply a picture of elegance, whom one could happily photograph all day long. (For the photographically minded, I acknowledge that pic 9 is greatly over-exposed, but I like it anyway. It was unintentional and my best guess is that my shutter fired at exactly the same time as the official photographer’s flash.) The third bride (pics 10 to 12) looked so nervous at the conclusion of the ceremony. However, some calming words from her attendant and fine-tuning of her kimono soon transformed her into a radiant bride. Finally, the fourth bride (pics 13 to 17) epitomised grace at all times.

I hope this post gives at least a little glimpse into another of Japan’s links with tradition.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Just Married

Wedding Ceremony

Attentive Bride

After the ceremony

Looking to the future

Ebullient Bride

Elegant Bride – pic 1

Elegant Bride – pic 2

Elegant Bride – pic 3

Bride and Groom

Radiant Bride – pic 1

Radiant Bride – pic 2

Gracious Bride – pic 1

Gracious Bride – pic 2

Face to face

Bridal Footwear

Costumes

February 25, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Crossing Paths with Omikoshi (Tokyo)

This week’s post continues the chaos theme by recounting the day I kept crossing paths with an Omikoshi.

It happened one Sunday when I visited the Nihombashi district in search of old Edo style buildings. As is so often the case the primary objective was trumped by something more interesting. Crossing the bridge over the river I noticed a crowd outside the Mitsukoshi department store and crowds must, of course, be investigated. Drawing closer I could see that the focus of activity was an object I later learned to be a mikoshi, for which omiskoshi is the honorific form.

Anyone who has experienced or seen images of Japanese matsuri (festivals) will be familiar with mikoshi. A brief description is that they are portable Shinto shrines used to transport deities between (say) a main and temporary shrine. They typically resemble a miniature shrine building and are often crowned with a phoenix bird statuette. I don’t know what they weigh, but they are substantial objects and are mounted on rails to be carried by their followers.

What impressed me most was the sense of community and the happy nature of those preparing to transport the mikoshi through the streets of Nihombashi. One often hears that Japanese people are reserved … well this was not the case on this particular Sunday in Nihombashi and everyone I approached welcomed me. Perhaps it helped that I was the only foreigner around.

The photographs are shown in sequence and I hope they communicate the energy of the occasion, which builds as the procession moves. Allow me to draw attention to a few shots. The first person I noticed through the crowd was the gentleman in “Standing Guard” (pic 3). He did not move from his post until the procession started and he looked as if he was indeed guarding his mikoshi. Participation is an equal opportunity as shown by “Women Power” (pic 6) and “Next Generation” (pic 10), where women and children share the load with men of all ages. It was very much a family event and one can imagine the children in these photos being accompanied by their children in years to come.

My favourite shot is “Success” (pic 9), where the men at the front, who had carried the mikoshi from the start showed their joy at reaching the rest stop. Unfortunately, I must apologise for this and other shots being somewhat blurred – the result of my having been drawn into the scrum and being jostled while trying to walk backwards. However, I’m happy to trade some blur for the experience.

There must have been well over a hundred people involved, with fresh people taking over from others in a spirit of seamless cooperation and teamwork. Except of course for the men at the front – they were staying the journey. Throughout the journey the followers chant “wasshoi” over and over in a rather hypnotic rhythm and indeed, it did seem for some people to be somewhat of a spiritual experience. By the way, I believe “wasshoi” means to share a physical load.

From time to time I tried to resume my search for the Edo style buildings, but kept crossing paths with this and other mikoshi. Even when I decided it was time for a refreshment break I still couldn’t escape. Sitting at Starbucks window I had a great view of the mikoshi continuing its journey (pic 15) – they made me feel soft and lazy.

I didn’t find the Edo style buildings, but I think the photos show the day worked out pretty well.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Omikoshi – Waiting to Begin

Omikoshi – The Head Man

Omikoshi – Standing Guard

Omikoshi – Elegant Spectator

Omikoshi – Off they go

Omikoshi – Women Power

Omikoshi – Nearing the first turn

Omikoshi – Happily working together

Omikoshi – Success!

Omikoshi – Next generation

Omikoshi – So Japanese

Omikoshi – Prepare to lower

Omikoshi – Rest stop

Omikoshi – The Restart

Omikoshi – View from Starbucks

February 18, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Chaotic Calm at Shibuya Crossing (Tokyo)

Chaotic calm! Yes, I know it sounds like a contradiction of terms. Nevertheless, it is how I see Tokyo’s famous Shibuya Crossing.

Shibuya Crossing may very well be Tokyo’s most recognisable place given its inclusion in travel documentaries, photographs and movies such as “Lost in Translation”. The popular vision of the crossing, where five roads intersect, is of crowds of people crossing in all directions. All the lights change at once and when the lights change to green it is like observing an old-fashioned infantry charge. However, rather than clash, the scene becomes one of chaotic calm. Pedestrians and cyclists plot their course from one side to the other, artfully avoiding each other in a demonstration of humans’ innate ability to move through crowded areas with a minimum of contact. Watching this human choreography unfold from a vantage point such as the Starbucks (pic 14) overlooking the intersection is wondrous and entertaining.

For those who like statistics, the adjoining Shibuya Station is the third busiest in the Tokyo metropolis, thus ensuring the constant supply of people crossing. At peak hour it is estimated that approximately 2500 cross at each cycle.

The action is round-the-clock given Shibuya’s popularity as an entertainment and shopping precinct, hence any visit to Tokyo should include at least one walk across this famous crossing.

In this post I have included a few of the traditional wide shots, but have mostly tried to show a sample of the individuals one encounters. Where have they come from? Where are they going? Who are they meeting? Simple questions underscoring that each person in the frame is an individual story coming randomly together at a point in time. A random collection that will never again be repeated.

My first photo shows Hachiko’s statue – a famous Shibuya landmark and a popular meeting point. In brief, the statue commemorates the loyalty of a faithful dog to its owner, very similar to Edinburgh’s Greyfriar’s Bobby. Each morning, Hachiko would walk his owner (a college professor) to Shibuya Station and return each evening to greet his owner’s return. One day his owner did not return, which became the start of Hachiko’s long vigil of faithfully waiting for the impossible. Local traders and family members cared for him as best they could, but eventually he succumbed to age and the elements. This bittersweet story has been captured in the movie “Hachiko – A Dog’s Story” starring Richard Gere. Well worth a look!

The remaining photos are a small sample of whom you might see during a visit to Shibuya Crossing. If you see yourself in any of the pics, please let me know and I hope I caught you from a good angle haha.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)