johnliddlephotography

Frozen moments from the infinity that is time


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Streets of Asakusa

To conclude this series of posts on Asakusa I have selected shots to show what visitors may typically see if strolling the streets of this interesting and often quirky area.

Designed by Phillipe Starck, the renowned French designer, the “Flamme d’Or” (Flame of Gold) atop Asahi’s Super Dry Hall (pics 1 and 2) is difficult to miss. The Super Dry Hall takes the shape of a beer glass and is quite architecturally striking in its own right, but absolutely unmissable with the 300 ton Flamme d’Or perched like a crowning glory. The building to the left is the Asahi Beer Headquarters, with the complex of buildings occupying the site where Asahi started brewing beer over 100 years ago.

Visitors will usually spend some time walking through Shin-Nakamise (pics 4 to 7), an undercover arcade running parallel to the more famous Nakamise Dori approach to Sensoji Temple (refer to previous post).

On the outside streets there is much to catch the eye. The Nimi building, or as I prefer to call it, the Tea Cup building (pic 8) presents as an eccentric novelty. However, it is actually in keeping with Asakusa’s hosting of many businesses supplying product to the hospitality sector, an example of which is a vendor’s display of takeaway food trays (pic 9).

Translation is always good for a laugh and although the antique shop’s wares (pic 11) appear interesting, my attention was initially caught by the misspelt word (“planing” rather than “planning”). Nonetheless, I freely admit that their attempt is much better than I could manage if operating in reverse.

Tokyo must go close to being the Starbucks capital of the world (pic 15) and yes I did succumb to taking a break and enjoyed looking out over Asakusa life from an upper level vantage point. Just as Starbucks is everywhere in Tokyo, so are bicycles (pic 16) and titling the shot as “bicycle calamity” is probably unkind. What most impressed me about this and other bicycle parking I observed in Japan was the general absence of security devices to prevent theft. I read recently that one of the reasons for the low crime rate in Japan is the high proportion of travel made on foot or by bicycle and perhaps there is some credence to this argument.

I felt a bit sorry for the rickshaw operator being passed by the cyclist at pic 17, as it is was hardly a fair contest in “power to weight” terms. It never ceased to amaze me how fit the rickshaw operators are and their ability to maintain conversations with their clients while jogging along.

I have shown the house at pic 18 in a previous post on concrete buildings and am indulging myself by reposting here as an example of the innovative architecture one finds in contemporary Japanese residences. By contrast, I also offer pic 19 as an example of how small many Japanese residences are.

My farewell to Asakusa is pic 20, which serves to remind that no matter how busy and bustling life can be, water and greenery combine to create opportunities to enjoy tranquil moments.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)


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Cafés & Coffee

For a country where the tea ceremony is an integral part of its cultural heritage, the Japanese people also appear to enjoy the pleasure of lingering over a coffee – particularly in the major cities where cafés abound.  Currently, the coffee scene is dominated by franchise operators, although one does find interesting independent cafés, which, as the coffee culture becomes more established, are likely to become more popular.

The first three photographs show examples of three popular franchises and I must say I would not be surprised if Tokyo is the Starbucks capital of the world.  They are everywhere!  The Shibuya Crossing Starbucks (pic 1) is probably the most prominent and is a great place for people watching, as is the Café Doutor (pic 2) overlooking the Ginza Crossing.

However, the variety and individuality of independent cafes can be seen from the other photographs such as Kyoto’s Café Yoshiko (pic 4) where customers can enjoy views of autumn colour and cherry blossom in season.  Similarly, the stark white minimalist look of the café in Niigata (pic 6) is so Japanese and The Deck at Harajuku (pic 7) is a great place for a warm snack and coffee.

Other places I remember fondly is Binya café (pic 8) in Ebisu.  I first came across Binya while walking to Tokyo’s magnificent Museum of Photography.  Enjoying coffee served in fine china is relaxing and a nice break from the hectic pace of life so characteristic of Tokyo and the temptation to order “takeaway”.

Wandering through Kiyojima (one of Tokyo’s old areas) led me to MuuMuu Coffee (pics 9 & 10) where I enjoyed lunch and a chat, only to learn that the barista had learnt his skills working in cafés in Melbourne (my home town).  Sometimes it truly is a small world.

My final shots are of Café Mazekoze in Nagano where I was (as usual) wandering the streets after visiting the Zenkoji Temple.  I was at first attracted by the bric-a-brac outside, but upon walking through the door I was immediately allured by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee.  Quite irresistible!  Again, conversation with the owner revealed another “small world” experience in that her sister now lives in Edinburgh – where I was born and grew up.  It is meetings like these that enrich travel and as so often happens, I left with a recommendation to visit another nearby temple.

Coffee breaks not only refresh us, but they can result in lasting memories of places visited.  I hope these photos help you to remember similar experiences.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)