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For me the starting point of a visit to Nanzen-ji is when one walks through the short pedestrian tunnel under the Keage incline, which, in the springtime, is awash with cherry blossom. Continuing down the lane past some wonderful residences, one finds the Konchi-in temple, which has occupied its present location since 1605.

Kyoto is famous for its temples and each temple seems to have a character of its own and when I think of Konchi-in I think of harmony. Passing through a torii gate as in pic 1 invites reflection and in this photograph I see the harmony of imperfect perfection. Although the plantings are precise and ordered, the gardeners have followed nature’s lead. Similarly, the seven-leaf maple cascading over the roof tiles (pic 3) matches the pattern on the circular ends of the tiles. Finally, even the addition of an electric light fitting above the centuries-old temple door (pic 4) blends with the overall aesthetic of the gloriously weathered colours.

Continuing on to the greater Nanzen-ji complex and passing through the Sanmon Gate (refer to my last posting), one comes across the imposing Hatto Hall. Unfortunately this lecture hall is not open to the public. A later addition (in 1890) to the Nanzen-ji complex is the Suirokaku Aqueduct, which appears more Roman than Japanese and is part of the Lake Biwa Canal, which continues to supply more than 90% of Kyoto’s water supply. Over the years the brick structure has aged gracefully (pics 6 to 8) and has become an attraction in its own right.

Behind the aqueduct is the Nanzen-in Temple, which I associate with a feeling of calm. The gardens built around the main hall seem to offer an invitation to slow down and indeed, during the autumn, most people simply stop to enjoy the splendrous colours. A glimpse is given by pics 9 to 12 and the gardens of Nanzen-in are certainly for meandering.

Finally, the Saisho-in Temple (pics 13 to 16) is a small sub-temple dating back to the eighth century and located close to the start of the aqueduct. The space is embracing, which the inscription shown at pic 16 communicates far more ably than my words.

Perhaps I will return to some of these places in later blogs, but for now I hope you find this little glimpse of the Nanzen-ji complex interesting.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Konchi-in Temple – Torii over path

Konchi-in Temple – Lantern

Konchi-in Temple – from the ages

Nanzen-ji Hatto Hall

Nanzen-ji Suirokaku Aquaduct pic 1

Nanzen-ji Suirokaku Aquaduct pic 2

Nanzen-ji Suirokaku Aquaduct pic 3

Nanzen-in Temple – main hall

Nanzen-in Temple – calm

Nanzen-in Temple – what lies beyond?

Nanzen-in Temple – beyond the gate

Saisho-in Temple – gate & outer wall

Saisho-in Temple – outdoor shrine

Saisho-in Temple – nature’s colour palette

Saisho-in Temple – summer

For a country where the tea ceremony is an integral part of its cultural heritage, the Japanese people also appear to enjoy the pleasure of lingering over a coffee – particularly in the major cities where cafés abound. Currently, the coffee scene is dominated by franchise operators, although one does find interesting independent cafés, which, as the coffee culture becomes more established, are likely to become more popular.

The first three photographs show examples of three popular franchises and I must say I would not be surprised if Tokyo is the Starbucks capital of the world. They are everywhere! The Shibuya Crossing Starbucks (pic 1) is probably the most prominent and is a great place for people watching, as is the Café Doutor (pic 2) overlooking the Ginza Crossing.

However, the variety and individuality of independent cafes can be seen from the other photographs such as Kyoto’s Café Yoshiko (pic 4) where customers can enjoy views of autumn colour and cherry blossom in season. Similarly, the stark white minimalist look of the café in Niigata (pic 6) is so Japanese and The Deck at Harajuku (pic 7) is a great place for a warm snack and coffee.

Other places I remember fondly is Binya café (pic 8) in Ebisu. I first came across Binya while walking to Tokyo’s magnificent Museum of Photography. Enjoying coffee served in fine china is relaxing and a nice break from the hectic pace of life so characteristic of Tokyo and the temptation to order “takeaway”.

Wandering through Kiyojima (one of Tokyo’s old areas) led me to MuuMuu Coffee (pics 9 & 10) where I enjoyed lunch and a chat, only to learn that the barista had learnt his skills working in cafés in Melbourne (my home town). Sometimes it truly is a small world.

My final shots are of Café Mazekoze in Nagano where I was (as usual) wandering the streets after visiting the Zenkoji Temple. I was at first attracted by the bric-a-brac outside, but upon walking through the door I was immediately allured by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Quite irresistible! Again, conversation with the owner revealed another “small world” experience in that her sister now lives in Edinburgh – where I was born and grew up. It is meetings like these that enrich travel and as so often happens, I left with a recommendation to visit another nearby temple.

Coffee breaks not only refresh us, but they can result in lasting memories of places visited. I hope these photos help you to remember similar experiences.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)