people | johnliddlephotography

August 2, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Harajuku Lebels

In my last post we took a stroll through Harajuku and today we visit the Harajuku Lebels at play.

Last time the stroll started by exiting Harajuku Station and walking straight ahead and down Takeshita Street. Today we turn right after exiting the station and head up the hill towards Yoyogi Park, another of the expansive green spaces one finds within the Tokyo metropolis and an extremely popular venue at weekends for people of all ages.

Near the park entry one finds the Harajuku Lebels, who have staked out their play, or should I say performance space for the day. The Lebels are a group of Rockabillies who put on their own rock and roll dancing show to the sounds of old Elvis and other rock classics. I don’t know what they do during the week, though a Japanese person in the crowd told me they are mostly Salarymen who don their Lebels gear at weekends and transform into their 1960’s personas.

They attract a crowd; yet don’t appear to play to the crowd. In fact, they appear to be totally enclosed in their own little magic circle that becomes their world for a few hours at a time. They dance with each other and for each other. Moves are taught and practiced and the camaraderie within the group is evident. Performances have an impromptu, almost jazz like feel to them. Dancers doing a solo routine will be joined by others, from which choreography equivalent to session musicians jamming will emerge.

Black is the preferred colour, most aptly captured at pic 2 where the young woman’s long black hair complements the black on black look perfectly. However, black is not compulsory, as one can see from several photos featuring the tattooed dancer in blue jeans, who seemed to be, if not the leader, the dominant player within the group. As in all areas of life, dominance Invites challenge and in this case, the dancer featured in pics 3 and 4, who, to my inexpert eye, was the best dancer of the day, gave the impression of staking his claim in a friendly way.

Dancing is hot work and the group worked their way steadily through a lot of beer in their own unique style. Beers were distributed by one dancer opening a can and throwing it in a high arc to another dancer who, except for one mishap, would expertly catch the can and quench their thirst. As you may imagine a lot of beer was spilt in the process.

I couldn’t help noticing a couple of other things. Firstly, several of the dancers had wallets or other items in their back pockets (as in pic 13). This is not an unusual sight in Japan, whereas in most places it would be akin to an invitation to be robbed. Secondly, the dancers were doing it purely for their personal enjoyment and nowhere around their magical circle was there hats or tins to collect donations from spectators. Even watching a group of Rockabillies contains cultural messages.

Apart from references already made to some photographs, the selections speak for themselves – a group of friends having fun doing what they enjoy and entertaining others in the process. Sounds like a win/win.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Waiting in the wings

Lady in Black

Rocker 1 – pic 1

Rocker 1 – pic 2

Rocker 2 – pic 1

Rocker 2 – pic 2

Choreography advice – not

Watch me strut

Splits attempt – pic 1

Splits attempt – pic 2

Playing air guitar

Dancing shoes

Taking a break – pic 1

Taking a break – pic 2

Taking a break – pic 3

Big Finale – pic 1

Big Finale – pic 2

Big Finale – pic 3

Big Finale – pic 4

Fans

July 19, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Harajuku

I first heard of Harajuku long before I visited Japan through the term Harajuku girls. The term is used to describe those (predominantly teenage girls) who enjoy dressing in theatrical costumes to take on the aura of real or fictional characters.

In the past Harajuku was a gathering point for this genre, particularly at weekends and although they are still to be seen, it would seem the popularity of garish dressing is on the decline. The area’s popularity inevitably attracted the attention of large international chain stores, which now compete with the edgier independent fashion stores for the patronage of the fashion and trend-conscious youth market. Nevertheless, Harajuku remains very much a youth oriented area and a major hub for youth culture and fashion.

Geographically, Harajuku is a relatively small area roughly covering the area between Harajuku Station and Omotesando, a more up-market area where one can find many high-end luxury brands. At this point, I should acknowledge that those who know Tokyo well would recognise that some of the photographs in this post are within Omotesando. However, geographic boundaries are often blurry and they are included as being more Harajuku in style.

Most people travel there by train and the first view is from the station platform (pic 1) looking directly down Takeshita Street, the must-see inclusion in any visit to Harajuku. Exiting the station, follow the pedestrian crossing (pics 2 & 3) directly to Takeshita Street, which is really more of a laneway with shops (pics 4 to 6) on either side. Be prepared for a crowd if visiting on a weekend (pic 7), though during the week there is more room to move (pics 8 & 9).

It’s a good place for people watching and one encounters interesting casts of characters such as those in pic 8. There is the Salaryman in his business suit seemingly interested in nothing but his mobile phone; the young attractive woman presumably wanting to be noticed and the young guy on the left who maybe doesn’t want to be noticed. This assortment of characters is typical of Tokyo where, no matter what an area’s dominant demographic might be; one invariably finds a cross-section of people from different walks of life, including those with interesting pets (pic 11).

The area also has entertaining buildings worth a second look. We often hear that land is scarce in Tokyo and perhaps one should not be too surprised to find a three-level café built from (or at least inspired by) shipping containers (pics 12 & 13).

Another standout building is The Watari Museum of Contemporary Art (pics 14 & 15), one of Tokyo’s leading contemporary art galleries. I recall turning my head when I first drove past in a taxi upon my arrival and immediately made a mental note to find the place again. As well as attracting attention to the Museum, one must applaud their promotion of art in this way. If one is wondering what the faces are looking at, the answer is on the other side of the street (pic 16). By the way, pics 16 to 18 are what I meant by Harajuku style in Omotesando.

To conclude this little walk through Harajuku I could not resist snapping the photographer on an overpass setting up his large frame camera (pic 19). What was he photographing? The Sunday afternoon crowds outside Harajuku Station of course (pic 20).

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Takeshita Street from Station Platform

Harajuku Station Crossing – pic 1

Harajuku Station Crossing – pic 2

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 1

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 2

Takeshita Street Shops – pic 3

Takeshita Street on a Sunday afternoon

Takeshita Street on a weekday – pic 1

Takeshita Street on a weekday – pic 2

People passing by

A Pet’s day out

3 level container cafe – pic 1

3 level container cafe – pic 2

Watari Museum – pic 1

Watari Museum – pic 2

Looking back at Watari

Simple shapes & colours

Place of rest

Capturing the shot

Sunday afternoon outside Harajuku Station

June 24, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Geisha Blur

Blur is not a word one normally associates with geisha, yet it aptly describes my most valued sightings of geisha from dusk onwards when their focus is getting to their next appointment. This is their busy time and in an evening with several bookings, time is money and they are ladies in a hurry. Sightings can be a “where did she come from?” experience as they pass in a blur of colourful elegance, appearing to float above the pavement with their short, quick steps.

Pics 1 to 3 are examples of geisha blur, all shot in Kyoto’s Gion district. Sadly the Geiko shown in pics 1 and 2 show signs of unwanted attention and it was disappointing to witness the lack of respect shown by many people obstructing their path and popping flashes to get the souvenir shot. Nevertheless, their grace shines through. I did not travel with a flash unit and was happy to record the blur, nor did I elect to join in chasing, which is why pic 3 shows a Maiko moving away. It is unfortunate that a frontal shot was blocked, as she was the most beautiful Maiko I saw. However, there is a certain pleasure in accepting blur as the trade-off for retaining one’s dignity. (I guess a career as paparazzi is out of the question.)

To stay with this theme, one must understand that geisha are celebrities with a difference. Their celebrity is an inheritance from being the current custodians of a traditional entertainment form unique to Japan. Indeed, in my opinion, geisha represent Japan’s most recognisable icon. Unlike western celebrities who seemingly crave attention, geisha go about their business in a quieter, more refined manner. However, their time-honoured practice of walking to appointments means that they are frequently exposed to an adoring and curious public.

Much has been written about the world of geisha, yet so much remains unknown. Retaining an element of mystery and intrigue is essential, but I would like to touch on one aspect that tends to be somewhat overlooked.

A general perception of Japan is that of a male dominated society and there is much to support this perception. Yet the geisha culture challenges this perception. The world of geisha is female dominated, with men occupying specific roles such as dressing, where strength is required to perfectly arrange a geisha’s apparel. The okiya within which geisha live and train under the guidance of an Okasan (mother) is exclusively female and most importantly, the Tea Houses (ochaya) where geisha entertain have traditionally been female owned and operated. I find it fascinating that this most feminine of Japanese cultures has emerged from a male dominated society and whilst geisha do not openly associate with feminism, their achievement is significant.

Pics 5 to 7 are of a young Maiko in Kyoto during the cherry blossom season. I gained the impression that she was somewhat uncomfortable in the public spotlight and perhaps she had not yet realised her powers.

Pics 8 and 9 are of a Tokyo geisha, shot in the late afternoon on her way to a nearby ochaya. Tokyo geisha are more elusive than their Kyoto counterparts and these shots were my reward for several hours spent wandering the streets of Mukojima. It was an enjoyable time as Mukojima is one of Tokyo’s older areas and although my primary focus was to see geisha, the area is interesting in its own right. After wandering for some time, I came across an area that simply felt right and decided to hang around for a while. (Maybe there is a bit of paparazzi in me after all.) A short time later, I heard the distinctive clip clopping and jangling sounds and there she was coming in my direction. My satisfaction with the day’s shoot was heightened after speaking with some Tokyo residents who advised that many people live for years in Tokyo without ever seeing geisha. Maybe I got lucky.

The final photograph (pic 10) of the older woman in kimono was taken shortly after pics 8 and 9. The wrapped object the lady is holding is a shamisen, a stringed Japanese instrument, which she plays as accompaniment for geisha performing dances. I would have liked to know if she had once been geisha, but alas, my Japanese language skills were inadequate.

It is always a special experience when one encounters geisha, whose numbers are unfortunately declining. One hopes this decline can be arrested and their place in Japan’s traditional art forms can be forever ensured. There are traditions that should never be lost. Geisha is one such tradition.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Two Geiko in Kyoto

Pink Geiko rushing by

Blurred Beauty

Geisha Poster

Gion Maiko – pic 1

Gion Maiko – pic 2

Gion Maiko – pic 3

Tokyo Geisha – pic 1

Tokyo Geisha – pic 2

Shamisen Player

June 13, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Gion

I have heard Kyoto described as “old Japan” in contrast to Tokyo being seen as “new Japan”. Like many generalisations, such descriptions may be seen as unkind and incomplete summations of each city given that each sits comfortably in the 21^st century and embrace, in that very Japanese way, the old and the new. Nevertheless, differences in the relative emphasis assigned by each city to the old and the new tends to support these broad classifications, as is supported by the preponderance of world heritage sites in and around Kyoto.

Through previous posts I have shown several of Kyoto’s world heritage listed sites and will show more in future posts. Today, however, I wish to focus on the area that has been Kyoto’s gathering place through the centuries and continues to be so today. The place I am talking about is, of course, Gion.

Its history is too deep to cover in this brief discussion and I will leave readers to pursue their own enquiries, preferring instead to talk of my own experiences.

My first morning in Kyoto was spent in Gion and perhaps it was the chance meeting with a Geiko (Kyoto term for geisha) that cast its spell over me. From then, the place was like a magnet and it seemed that at some point of each day I would find myself somewhere in Gion. This was not always planned, but Kyoto is a great city to explore on foot and many paths lead to and/or from Gion.

In its heyday Gion was a maze of narrow streets filled with traditional wooden buildings and home to many thousands of geisha. If time travel were a reality it would be at the top of my time travel bucket list. Times do, of course, change and with tourism comes commercialisation. However, old Gion remains. The streets and alleys are still narrow and if one can ignore the modern additions such as power lines, a sense of the old maze and its charm can be felt. It is not a place to visit with a guidebook and a list of sights to see. It is a place in which to wander, get lost and keep wandering until you find your way.

The selected photographs attempt to show old and new Gion, though I openly admit they do not do justice to the place. The tea-houses by the canal (pic 1) attract an up-market clientele where geisha entertain. In fact, pic 2 shows a Geiko and Maiko (apprentice geisha) on their way to the tea-house in the foreground of pic 1. One can only wonder how many Geiko/Maiko have and will continue to walk this street. For me, pic 2 is a reminder of a lost opportunity. I was lost in concentration setting-up another shot with the camera mounted on a tripod when I became aware of movement behind me. On turning around I was greeted by the graciously smiling white painted faces of a Geiko and her Maiko sister en route to their appointment. There was only time to settle for exchanged greetings as they passed, hence the shot of them walking away.

Pics 3 to 5 show other examples of the warm, welcoming atmosphere created by the elements of old wooden buildings, cobbled streets, trees and water. To round off the older style images, pic 6 shows the Minamiza Kabuki Theatre, Kyoto’s premier kabuki theatre located in an always bustling section of Gion.

As mentioned earlier, Gion is a major tourist attraction and pics 7 and 8 give some indication of its popularity. Pic 9 shows the same street with fewer people, but what is interesting is how the young Maiko is the focus of attention. Although the kimono worn by regular Japanese women do not match the finery worn by geisha, one does see more kimono worn around Gion than elsewhere in Japan (at least in my experience). Typical examples are those of the kimono clad women in pic 11 enjoying a stroll through one of Gion’s many winding laneways and the young women (pic 12) disappearing into an alley, framed again by those typically Japanese building elements of paved stone and wood.

For those readers who have visited Gion I hope these images may spark some pleasant memories and for those who have not visited in person, I hope this little glimpse may spark some interest.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Tea Houses by Canal

Geisha on way to appointment

Welcoming Light

Delightful Footpath

A beckoning courtyard

Minamiza Kabuki Theatre

Gion Streets – pic 1

Gion Streets – pic 2

Gion Streets – pic 3

Gion Streets – pic 4

Kimono clad strollers

Young women in kimono

Gion home – pic 1

Pathway steps

Products of a fertile mind

Gion roofscape

June 3, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 6 Comments

Shinto Weddings

The best pleasures are those of the unexpected variety, such as I experienced on a visit to Kamakura’s Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. One is always drawn to a crowd and in this instance, a crowd had gathered around the Maiden (an open sided stage or pavilion) in front of the stairway leading to the main hall. Drawing closer it became apparent that, purely by luck, I was about to witness my first Shinto wedding ceremony.

As with western-style ceremonies the centre of attraction is the bride, as one will surely appreciate from the accompanying photographs. The ceremony itself is symbolic and does not legally confer marriage. This takes place previously via a civil ceremony in accordance with Japanese law.

Happening across the Kamakura wedding conducted in public was most fortunate, as most Shinto wedding ceremonies are conducted within the private areas of shrines, thus the public can only view the participants before and after. Nevertheless, it is a sight I would never tire of and I could quite happily spend my weekends photographing Shinto weddings. (Bookings will be gratefully accepted haha.)

As with many things Japanese, the ceremony and the costumes communicate a link to past traditions – a link further emphasised by the historic significance of the shrines within which the weddings take place. The locations for these photographs, the Hachimangu Shrine at Kamakura and Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu, are each steeped in history and are highly significant sites in their own right.

The brides wear exclusively white garments – a colour associated with purity in Japan, with the only exception appearing to be adornments worn in their hair. In ages past, I understand that brides would paint their faces and arms white, as do geisha, though this practice is no longer followed. The bridal kimono is intricately embroidered in patterns of the bride’s choosing, though the patterns do seem to draw heavily on symbols from nature. Perhaps the most striking part of the costume is the wataboshi, the large oval shaped hood intended to conceal the bride’s face to everyone except the groom. Whilst I don’t think it succeeds in this respect, the wataboshi is undoubtedly elegant and adds an air of mystery. For viewers who may be wondering, of the five brides shown in the photographs, four were wearing wigs.

I will now allow the pictures to tell the story. Pics 1 to 5 are shots from the Kamakura wedding and pics 6 to 17 were taken on a rather wet and cold afternoon at Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu, where a number of weddings were taking place.

Of the four brides photographed at Meiji Jingu, it was interesting to observe their different personalities. The first bride (pic 6) was ebullient and radiated happiness and joy. The second bride (pics 7 to 9) was simply a picture of elegance, whom one could happily photograph all day long. (For the photographically minded, I acknowledge that pic 9 is greatly over-exposed, but I like it anyway. It was unintentional and my best guess is that my shutter fired at exactly the same time as the official photographer’s flash.) The third bride (pics 10 to 12) looked so nervous at the conclusion of the ceremony. However, some calming words from her attendant and fine-tuning of her kimono soon transformed her into a radiant bride. Finally, the fourth bride (pics 13 to 17) epitomised grace at all times.

I hope this post gives at least a little glimpse into another of Japan’s links with tradition.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Just Married

Wedding Ceremony

Attentive Bride

After the ceremony

Looking to the future

Ebullient Bride

Elegant Bride – pic 1

Elegant Bride – pic 2

Elegant Bride – pic 3

Bride and Groom

Radiant Bride – pic 1

Radiant Bride – pic 2

Gracious Bride – pic 1

Gracious Bride – pic 2

Face to face

Bridal Footwear

Costumes

May 14, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Osaka – Dotonbori area

My time in Osaka was regretfully limited, thus I was unable to gain a good feel for the city. Similarly, my photography was also limited to a few subject areas – a limitation I can hopefully address at a future time.

Nevertheless, one forms impressions regardless of the time available and I saw enough to realise that Osaka has a personality quite distinct from that of Tokyo and its close Kansai neighbour Kyoto. By comparison with Kyoto, it presents as louder, grittier and more concerned with the present than the past. Like Tokyo, its importance as a business centre is evident, though the people present as more relaxed and less brand-conscious than in the national capital.

Before visiting Osaka I had read that it was a city obsessed with food and eating – a reputation that is well deserved. Given that Japan generally is a country where food and eating is somewhat of a national hobby, Osaka is the jewel in the crown with all varieties of restaurants and food outlets to please the most dedicated foodies. Unfortunately, I am not a foodie and cannot really add much more to this subject.

Most of the photos posted were taken in and around the Dotonbori area, which really comes alive after dark. Dotonbori is essentially a street that runs alongside the Dotonbori Canal in Osaka’s Namba ward, though the atmosphere extends to the many laneways running off the main street, as well as neighbouring streets. Given its proximity to Namba Station and popular department stores, the area attracts a wide cross-section of the community and is especially popular with the younger generations.

Its quirky feel can be appreciated by the impossible to ignore sculptures outside the Dotonbori Hotel (pic 1) and the robot-like streetlights (pic 15). Being a fan of street art, I was immediately attracted to the Peace on Earth work (pic 2), which, as well as expressing an important sentiment, created an interesting streetscape.

I mentioned proximity to popular department stores, one of which is Takashimaya shown at pic 4 with an army of people apparently exiting the store. This is a little misleading and it should be pointed out that, in accordance with Japanese practice, the very busy Namba Station is located under Takashimaya. Even as a tourist, one quickly comes to appreciate the collocation of stations with key infrastructure and there is a lesson in urban planning to be learned from Japan’s success in this area.

One of the things I came to love about Japan was the colourful signage such as those shown at pics 5 and 6, clearly aimed at appealing to the city’s obsession with food. Just as colourful and appealing are the street food vendors (pics 11 and 12), who are entertaining to watch and it is a shame that we do not yet have a way to capture the aromas of the food to match the images shown. One day perhaps!

During my time in Japan I came to the conclusion that dining is often a private/public experience and I may put together a series of images on this theme at a later stage. For the moment, I offer pics 9 and 10 showing partially obscured vision of diners enjoying their meals. My apologies for eavesdropping, but obsessions come in many forms.

My favourite images are probably those of a typical laneway (pics 7 and 8), with its lovely cobbled path and enticing signage creating a pleasant ambience. By contrast, pics 13 and 14 show sections of the main entertainment area, where the competition for trade is more actively pursued.

Finally, I have included a couple of portraits of a woman shopping (pic 16) and a cigarette seller (pic 17). The woman virtually requested the photograph by stopping and looking straight into the camera and what an interesting subject. Wearing kimono accessorized with a modern handbag and clutching the mandatory mobile phone, she is a great example of how easily Japan accommodates the old with the new.

The cigarette seller is a different story, as I had spotted him previously and had felt some sympathy for a man who gave the appearance of having a tough night. Not wishing to offend him, I sought permission to take his photograph and his disposition changed from that of glum to happy. It seems that being photographed cheered him up and made me feel good too. In fact, pic 17 became my final shot for that day. It’s always nice to end on a high note.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Welcome to the Dotonbori Hotel

Peace on Earth

Dotonbori Canal at night

Outside Takashimaya

Restaurant signage – pic 1

Restaurant signage – pic 2

Laneway – pic 1

Laneway – pic 2

Diners – pic 1

Diners – pic 2

Street food – pic 1

Street food – pic 2

Dotonbori Street – pic 1

Dotonbori Street – pic 2

Robot like streetlight

Woman shopping

Cigarette seller

April 19, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 3 Comments

Sayonara Sakura (Kyoto)

Sayonara Sakura is my fourth and final post on the cherry blossom season and I hope readers of this blog have enjoyed the images as much as I have enjoyed sharing them.

Once captured, an image is forever and becomes one of those frozen moments from the infinity that is time. This has allowed me the indulgence of posting cherry blossom themed photographs over four weeks, somewhat longer than the real-life experience.

To conclude this series I have selected photographs linked only by the common factor of cherry blossom. Some photos are personal favourites, whereas others revisit and extend previous themes. Allow me to make a few brief observations on select photos.

All the photos were taken in and around Kyoto, with the first photograph showing the Philosopher’s Path – a walk I made many times and a favourite place of mine in Kyoto. This photo best captures the image of the Path that I carry in my mind.

In an earlier post (March 28, 2014) I featured a number of shots taken at the Heian shrine, where the cherry blossom was simply magnificent. I had reluctantly excluded pics 3 and 4 from that post – an exclusion now remedied.

Pics 8 and 9 should be viewed together in that they show diners at different ends of the culinary spectrum, each enjoying views of nearby cherry blossom whilst dining. On the one hand there is the clean, modern lines of a fast-food establishment (pic 8) and on the other (pic 9), a row of high-end teahouses, which I have seen attended by geisha. Two polar dining experiences linked by the sakura.

Another favourite location is Ryoanji and particularly its highly renowned karesansui within a magnificent earthen wall. At pic 13 I have shown the sakura from the other side of the wall – a personal indulgence.

Those who have visited Kyoto will probably have visited the Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto’s Gion district. Pics 14 and 15 feature the same sakura tree at the top of the steps near the main entrance. Pic 14 is the view that greets visitors on arrival and pic 15 is the reverse view looking out over Kyoto and its surrounding hills.

I recall an earlier visit to Kyoto where I chose to capture the sunset from Kiyomizudera as my final shots of Kyoto. Somehow the final photograph of this blog seems an appropriate way to bid sayonara to the sakura until next year.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Cascading Sakura along Philosopher’s Path

A Kyoto Lunchtime

In the Shade of Sakura

Sakura at Heian Shrine

Hanami along Philosopher’s Path

Garden in Higashiyama

Arashiyama and Beyond

Fast-food and Sakura

Upscale Teahouse and Sakura

Old Sakura in a Kyoto Park

Sakura by Kyoto Canal

Splendid White Blossoms

Ryoanji – the other side of the wall

Sakura at Kiyomizudera

Looking back at Kyoto

Hanami (cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto)

April 4, 2014 by johnliddlephotography 11 Comments

Hanami means to view the cherry blossoms and would be a frequently used word across Japan at the present time as people plan their hanami experiences before the fragile blossoms disappear for another year.

To limit the meaning of hanami to “viewing” is somewhat incomplete, as I believe careful observation of the accompanying images will reveal. Hanami is more of an appreciation and celebration, not only of the blossoms per se; but of life itself and those with whom hanami is shared. To even be a viewer of hanami, as was my position in capturing these photographs, is an uplifting experience.

If I were asked for one word to describe what I observed, the word would be “joy” – a simple yet significant word. When joy is felt, other emotions such as happiness, peacefulness, love and even reverence are brought into play. To think that little pink/white blossoms can evoke such emotions is testament to the power of nature to build the human spirit and is, in my view, an inherent strength of Japanese culture to harness this subtle power for individual and community good.

The photographs were taken at a number of Kyoto locations, though location is insignificant in this instance. Whether located in one of Kyoto’s most sacred or most nondescript locations, the cherry blossom is appreciated. Indeed, I recall thinking during my walks through Kyoto, that the solitary trees one finds in otherwise plain areas may even have the greatest significance.

Let me discuss the photographs and I will try to be brief. The young girl crossing the narrow bridge over the canal (pic 1) is an everyday sight in Kyoto. Add the presence of cherry blossoms and her pink clothing and the image becomes poetic. Similarly, the generations passing on the bridge (pic 2) talks of the timeliness of the season’s appeal and the seasons of life.

Look closely at the faces of the businessman (pic 3) and the father with his adult daughter (my assumption) at pic 4. What do you see? Apart from more pink clothing worn by the daughter (there is a trend here); their faces show appreciation for the object of their gaze. What were they looking at? An old sakura tree, draping its blossoms over the wall of Ryoanji’s famous karesansui (pic 5). The wall alone is an object of beauty, which, during the cherry blossom season, becomes mesmerizing.

Pic 6 illustrates why the Philosopher’s Path is a time-honoured hanami location and further along the path, one finds a group of old friends sharing another hanami season at pic 7.

Hanami can be and is often enjoyed alone, as shown by the young woman (pics 8 and 9) apparently lost in admiration of the season’s blooms. What is she thinking? What is she remembering? What is she wishing for? Only she knows, but look closely at the patterns on her kimono. Could she be wearing her hanami kimono? Whatever the answer to these questions, I sense she will have remembered these frozen moments.

The season is a time for parents and children of all ages. At pic 10 we see a father tenderly supporting the tottering early steps of his daughter, experiencing what may be her first hanami. In years to come, one wonders whether she will be in a photograph such as pic 11, where two women of different generations celebrate another season, again exhibiting tenderness and love.

Communal groups also form in popular locations such as the Sanmon Gate (pic 12), where the steps form ideal viewing platforms. Hanami can even dispel myths. Anyone who thinks the Japanese are always quiet and reserved would change their views after spending time around groups like those at pics 13 and 14. Office juniors are often assigned the task of securing a location for after-work hanami celebrations and from what I observed, their efforts and lonely hours are well rewarded with convivial and loud company.

Finally, it is a season where romance can also bloom and even if short lived, it’s not every day that sharing a takeaway meal on a concrete seat can be an atmospheric experience (pic 15). Happy hanami (pic 16) is intentionally placed last, simply because it is an infectiously happy shot and if we could all have moments like this throughout each year, the world would be a happier place.

Thank you for reading and looking at my personal interpretation of a cherry blossom season in Kyoto. I hope you can see some of what I saw and I’d be delighted if you see and feel much more.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Young girl on bridge

Generations united by hanami

Spellbound at Ryoanji – pic 1

Spellbound at Ryoanji – pic 2

Cherry blossom at Ryoanji

Sakura along the Philosopher’s Path

Another season shared with friends

Lost in admiration – pic 1

Lost in admiration – pic 2

Father and daughter

Mother and daughter

Hanami at Sanmon Gate

After work hanami – pic 1

After work hanami – pic 2

Young couple by canal

Happy hanami

This gallery contains 16 photos

March 12, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 5 Comments

Nikko (Toshogu & Taiyuan Shrines)

Someone told me that Nikko is the place every Japanese person wants to visit at least once. After visiting there twice in different seasons I came to understand why, but I had no idea how their words would resonate on my feeling that this post does not do justice to Nikko’s importance to the Japanese.

In Nikko, all roads lead to the complex including the Toshogu, Futarasan and Taiyuin shrines and it is from this complex that today’s images are drawn. Words that may typically be used to describe Japanese temples and shrines such as subtle and understated do not apply here. There is nothing understated about these shrines. Quite the opposite, yet still their underlying message is that of reverence and respect for those honoured here.

Toshogu is the dominant shrine, as evidenced by the buildings of the Taiyuan Shrine being oriented to face Toshogu as a mark of respect for Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa era. As well as being the driving force behind the construction of Toshogu Shrine to honour his grandfather, Iemitsu (the third shogun) is perhaps better known as the shogun who closed Japan to foreign commerce and isolated it from the rest of the world for 200 years.

The tree-lined path to Toshogu Shrine is dominated by Ishidorii (pic 1), a granite torii gate that majestically draws one forward. In my humble opinion, it must surely rank among Japan’s most significant torii. To the left of Ishidorii is the five-storey pagoda (pic 2), where the storeys represent, in ascending order, the elements of earth, water, fire, wind and heaven.

Toshogu’s most famous attraction is perhaps the Sacred Stable (pics 3 and 4), or more specifically the story of stages in a monkey’s life told through a series of carvings on the walls of the building. Since early times in Japan, monkeys have been regarded as guardians of horses, hence their significance to the stable building. The most famous carving is, of course, that of the three wise monkeys, whose message of “hear no evil, speak no evil and see no evil” has been an aspirational refrain of parents through the ages.

Other structures of interest include my favourite, the relatively subdued Rinzo or Holy Sutra Library (pic 5), which houses a collection of valuable Buddhist scriptures; the heavily decorated Yomeimon Gate (pic 6) flanked on each side by statues of the first shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, whose presence remains imposing (pic 7); and the designated national treasure – the Karamon Gate (pic 8).

The heavily wooded setting makes for pleasant walking and throughout the grounds one finds areas of interest such as small roadside shrines (pic 10) and many stone and metal lanterns (pic 9) donated by feudal lords. To walk these grounds with someone steeped in Nikko history would be a pleasure, though the stories behind each building and object may require a lifetime of walks.

Although not as grand as the Toshogu Shrine, the Taiyuan Shrine is no less interesting. Prior to climbing several sets of stairs and passing through a series of gates, one finds The Cistern for Holy Water (pic 11). Water from a nearby stream is channeled down through a system of gutters into a solid granite basin so perfectly aligned that the water evenly overflows each edge. Visitors stop here for purification before proceeding to the Nitenmon Gate, which can be seen in the background.

Taiyuan is built on a fairly steep slope, thus opening up vistas such as those shown (pics 12 and 13) at various points during the climb. Reaching the upper level, one finds the largest building (pic 14), with this view showing the Ainomo or connecting chamber between the Haiden (sanctuary) and Honden (inner sanctuary). Adjacent to the Honden is the Koukamon Gate (pic 15), the final gate behind which lies the Okunoin – the tomb of the third shogun Iemitsu. Neither the Koukamon Gate nor Okunoin are open to the public.

Finally, walking back to central Nikko, one passes the Shinkyo Bridge (pic 16), regarded as one of the three most significant bridges in Japan. The bridge across the Daikyo River was originally built in 1636 (rebuilt 1907) for the use of the Shogun and imperial messengers.

A visit to these sites is at first a visual assault on the senses, such is the splendour and grandeur one encounters. However, the true value is felt by slowing down and allowing Nikko to seep into one’s senses. One can then begin (only begin) to understand why it is so revered by the Japanese people.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Nikko – Ishidorii

Nikko – Five Storey Pagoda

Nikko – Sacred Stable

Nikko – Three Wise Monkeys

Nikko – Holy Sutra Library

Nikko – Yomeimon Gate

Nikko – Takugawa Ieyasu

Nikko – Karamon Gate

Nikko – Roadside offerings

Nikko – Lanterns & Cherry Blossom

Nikko – The Cistern for Holy Water

Nikko – Yashomon Gate

Nikko – Lantern Rows

Nikko – Ainomo at Taiyuin Shrine

Nikko – Koukamon Gate

Nikko – Shinkyo Bridge

February 25, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Crossing Paths with Omikoshi (Tokyo)

This week’s post continues the chaos theme by recounting the day I kept crossing paths with an Omikoshi.

It happened one Sunday when I visited the Nihombashi district in search of old Edo style buildings. As is so often the case the primary objective was trumped by something more interesting. Crossing the bridge over the river I noticed a crowd outside the Mitsukoshi department store and crowds must, of course, be investigated. Drawing closer I could see that the focus of activity was an object I later learned to be a mikoshi, for which omiskoshi is the honorific form.

Anyone who has experienced or seen images of Japanese matsuri (festivals) will be familiar with mikoshi. A brief description is that they are portable Shinto shrines used to transport deities between (say) a main and temporary shrine. They typically resemble a miniature shrine building and are often crowned with a phoenix bird statuette. I don’t know what they weigh, but they are substantial objects and are mounted on rails to be carried by their followers.

What impressed me most was the sense of community and the happy nature of those preparing to transport the mikoshi through the streets of Nihombashi. One often hears that Japanese people are reserved … well this was not the case on this particular Sunday in Nihombashi and everyone I approached welcomed me. Perhaps it helped that I was the only foreigner around.

The photographs are shown in sequence and I hope they communicate the energy of the occasion, which builds as the procession moves. Allow me to draw attention to a few shots. The first person I noticed through the crowd was the gentleman in “Standing Guard” (pic 3). He did not move from his post until the procession started and he looked as if he was indeed guarding his mikoshi. Participation is an equal opportunity as shown by “Women Power” (pic 6) and “Next Generation” (pic 10), where women and children share the load with men of all ages. It was very much a family event and one can imagine the children in these photos being accompanied by their children in years to come.

My favourite shot is “Success” (pic 9), where the men at the front, who had carried the mikoshi from the start showed their joy at reaching the rest stop. Unfortunately, I must apologise for this and other shots being somewhat blurred – the result of my having been drawn into the scrum and being jostled while trying to walk backwards. However, I’m happy to trade some blur for the experience.

There must have been well over a hundred people involved, with fresh people taking over from others in a spirit of seamless cooperation and teamwork. Except of course for the men at the front – they were staying the journey. Throughout the journey the followers chant “wasshoi” over and over in a rather hypnotic rhythm and indeed, it did seem for some people to be somewhat of a spiritual experience. By the way, I believe “wasshoi” means to share a physical load.

From time to time I tried to resume my search for the Edo style buildings, but kept crossing paths with this and other mikoshi. Even when I decided it was time for a refreshment break I still couldn’t escape. Sitting at Starbucks window I had a great view of the mikoshi continuing its journey (pic 15) – they made me feel soft and lazy.

I didn’t find the Edo style buildings, but I think the photos show the day worked out pretty well.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)