johnliddlephotography

May 14, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 2 Comments

Osaka – Dotonbori area

My time in Osaka was regretfully limited, thus I was unable to gain a good feel for the city. Similarly, my photography was also limited to a few subject areas – a limitation I can hopefully address at a future time.

Nevertheless, one forms impressions regardless of the time available and I saw enough to realise that Osaka has a personality quite distinct from that of Tokyo and its close Kansai neighbour Kyoto. By comparison with Kyoto, it presents as louder, grittier and more concerned with the present than the past. Like Tokyo, its importance as a business centre is evident, though the people present as more relaxed and less brand-conscious than in the national capital.

Before visiting Osaka I had read that it was a city obsessed with food and eating – a reputation that is well deserved. Given that Japan generally is a country where food and eating is somewhat of a national hobby, Osaka is the jewel in the crown with all varieties of restaurants and food outlets to please the most dedicated foodies. Unfortunately, I am not a foodie and cannot really add much more to this subject.

Most of the photos posted were taken in and around the Dotonbori area, which really comes alive after dark. Dotonbori is essentially a street that runs alongside the Dotonbori Canal in Osaka’s Namba ward, though the atmosphere extends to the many laneways running off the main street, as well as neighbouring streets. Given its proximity to Namba Station and popular department stores, the area attracts a wide cross-section of the community and is especially popular with the younger generations.

Its quirky feel can be appreciated by the impossible to ignore sculptures outside the Dotonbori Hotel (pic 1) and the robot-like streetlights (pic 15). Being a fan of street art, I was immediately attracted to the Peace on Earth work (pic 2), which, as well as expressing an important sentiment, created an interesting streetscape.

I mentioned proximity to popular department stores, one of which is Takashimaya shown at pic 4 with an army of people apparently exiting the store. This is a little misleading and it should be pointed out that, in accordance with Japanese practice, the very busy Namba Station is located under Takashimaya. Even as a tourist, one quickly comes to appreciate the collocation of stations with key infrastructure and there is a lesson in urban planning to be learned from Japan’s success in this area.

One of the things I came to love about Japan was the colourful signage such as those shown at pics 5 and 6, clearly aimed at appealing to the city’s obsession with food. Just as colourful and appealing are the street food vendors (pics 11 and 12), who are entertaining to watch and it is a shame that we do not yet have a way to capture the aromas of the food to match the images shown. One day perhaps!

During my time in Japan I came to the conclusion that dining is often a private/public experience and I may put together a series of images on this theme at a later stage. For the moment, I offer pics 9 and 10 showing partially obscured vision of diners enjoying their meals. My apologies for eavesdropping, but obsessions come in many forms.

My favourite images are probably those of a typical laneway (pics 7 and 8), with its lovely cobbled path and enticing signage creating a pleasant ambience. By contrast, pics 13 and 14 show sections of the main entertainment area, where the competition for trade is more actively pursued.

Finally, I have included a couple of portraits of a woman shopping (pic 16) and a cigarette seller (pic 17). The woman virtually requested the photograph by stopping and looking straight into the camera and what an interesting subject. Wearing kimono accessorized with a modern handbag and clutching the mandatory mobile phone, she is a great example of how easily Japan accommodates the old with the new.

The cigarette seller is a different story, as I had spotted him previously and had felt some sympathy for a man who gave the appearance of having a tough night. Not wishing to offend him, I sought permission to take his photograph and his disposition changed from that of glum to happy. It seems that being photographed cheered him up and made me feel good too. In fact, pic 17 became my final shot for that day. It’s always nice to end on a high note.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Welcome to the Dotonbori Hotel

Peace on Earth

Dotonbori Canal at night

Outside Takashimaya

Restaurant signage – pic 1

Restaurant signage – pic 2

Laneway – pic 1

Laneway – pic 2

Diners – pic 1

Diners – pic 2

Street food – pic 1

Street food – pic 2

Dotonbori Street – pic 1

Dotonbori Street – pic 2

Robot like streetlight

Woman shopping

Cigarette seller

May 5, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 8 Comments

Snow Monkeys (part 2)

A friend told me that upon viewing a print of pic 1, his friend’s eyes turned to moons and she asked if those creatures are of this earth. Frozen moments in time become forever and I am happy to have this image forever. Leaving aside the visual effect of steam rising from the hot waters into the cold air and the shroud like appearance of the baby’s matted fur, it is fundamentally an image of a mother’s unconditional love for a child. Look at the eyes. Mother and child appear as if in a trance. Her entire being is focused on caring for her child and her child has surrendered to the comfort of a mother’s care. Many adjectives come to mind, but I have said enough and will now allow viewers to read the photograph through their own eyes and experiences.

If there was a dominant memory I took away from my two days with the Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani, it was that of having witnessed the importance of family at its most elemental level. Stripped of the comforts we often take for granted, bar nature’s gift of hot springs of course, this community of Japanese macaque demonstrate care and tenderness whilst surviving in a wild and often inhospitable mountain environment. To my eyes, pic 2 is an image of togetherness, with pics 3 and 4 emphasising the parent/child bonding that we hold so dear in our human societies. Pic 3 is especially interesting as it shows rare eye contact with an adult monkey. In their society, direct eye contact is a sign of enmity and the adult monkeys are expert in averting their gaze away from the camera lens.

The younger monkeys are more inquisitive and as can be seen from some of the images (pics 5 to 11), will stare directly into the camera. Watching the young monkeys at play is captivating and prior to the cuteness presented at pic 5, the two youngsters were playing boisterously. They may not know it, but such play prepares them for adult responsibilities and one wonders what adventures the future holds for them.

Maybe I have strange mental images of bats, but Batmonkey (pic 7) is so named because that was the image that popped into my head when this sopping wet monkey emerged from the hot springs to dry off. The curiosity of the young is further shown at pic 9 – a one handed shot leaning over the pool, with the camera facing directly down as the youngster looked directly up. It was pleasing that I was not perceived as a threat and was allowed to take the shot free of intimidation.

Pic 10 is a favourite image, where the young monkey seems equally engrossed in chewing a twig and checking out this alien at the side of the pool. Mum’s hand offers the security of knowing that protection is near, not that it was required. Look at this monkey’s unmarked face and big innocent eyes. Compare it to the faces of adult monkeys; all of who exhibit some scars of life and one can appreciate the rigorous life to come.

Tough love is also practiced, not that you would know it from the expression of the young monkey in pic 11, who had recently surfaced from a parental dunking. Prior to this photo, the monkey had been held under the water and walked around the pool by a parent – presumably as part of their training to survive their environment. No damage seems to have been done.

There is much time spent on grooming, either on a personal basis (pic 12) or with the help of a friend (pic 13). (This is an opportune time to point out that what may appear as blemishes in some photos are, in fact, dirt and vegetation caught in the monkeys’ fur. I do not like to extensively edit photographs and to edit away such objects would have been to misrepresent the monkeys’ true appearance.)

The harshness of life on the mountain is apparent at times and the adult monkey at pic 14 appears somewhat weary and worn. One must also remember that they live in a hierarchical community and this realization struck me from my observations of the old monkey at pic 15. He spent his time on the fringes. Part of the community, but no longer in the midst of the action. In years past, he may have been one of those dominant males that created so much tension on the first day of my visit. I felt sorry for this old monkey and although he retains a proud bearing, his plight is not dissimilar to that of many older people in our communities. Perhaps we are more alike than we really realise.

Before leaving Nagano I took this shot of the mountains as night fell. Not a great shot, but it felt nice to know the monkeys were up there somewhere.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Loving care

Family bathing together

Mother and child – pic 1

Mother and child – pic 2

Young friends

Staying warm

Batmonkey

Alone at last

Curious

Under Mum’s care

Just been dunked

Personal grooming

Looking after each other

Looking weary

Old and proud

They’re up there somewhere

April 29, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 3 Comments

Snow Monkeys (part 1)

Japanese Macaque monkeys can be found in various locations throughout Japan, but only at Jigokudani Yaenkoen can one observe the monkeys bathing in hot springs. These monkeys are more popularly known as Snow Monkeys and have featured in many nature documentaries filmed by people of international renown. However, there is always room for one more humble commentary on these wild enchanting creatures.

Jigokudani is about a forty-minute bus ride from Nagano Station, followed by a walk of thirty to forty minutes to reach the monkey park located in a valley near the Yokuya River – a mountainous area in central Japan. Given that Nagano (the host city for the 1998 Winter Olympics) is less than two hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen, the visit can be made as a day trip.

This post is the first of a two-part blog, with today’s post concentrating on giving some idea of the area where the monkeys live, as well as introducing the monkeys of course. In the next post, I will share more images of young monkeys and their parental bonds.

The photographs were taken over two visits on consecutive days, with each of the days providing quite different experiences. There was an air of tension on the first day, apparently due to the comings and goings of the community’s dominant adult males. They are used to getting their own way and one did not need to be an expert naturalist to observe the hierarchical nature of the community. As is found in most wild animal communities, size and strength are key attributes.

Visitors should heed the warnings that the animals are wild, albeit used to and reasonably comfortable with the close presence of humans. I found this out firsthand when my confidence rose and I ventured too close for a photograph. My subject took offence, became snarly and charged. His bluff was enough and I retreated – warned and unharmed, not to mention providing some entertainment for others present. A little while later a Japanese woman was similarly charged and we enjoyed a short conversation about our war stories.

I clearly remember her saying that despite being hit on the leg, she still loved the monkeys.

On the second day and in the absence of the dominant males, the atmosphere was more relaxed and free from any aggression. Perhaps this is not unlike human communities where moods can vary in accordance with those present and the underlying social dynamics. Each monkey has their role and it is fascinating to be able to observe their social interactions at such close quarters.

I visited when autumn was yielding to winter, as can be appreciated from the first image of an adult monkey bathing in the hot spring, masked by the rising steam hitting the cold air. He was considerably warmer and more comfortable than I was at that time.

Pics 2 to 5 provide a rough chronology of the walk to the monkey park. Pic 2 shows the view of the valley from the Kanbayashi Onsen bus stop, followed by a section of the path (pic 3) one takes to reach the snow monkeys. The climb is quite gradual and apart from a couple of steep sections is not arduous. One is almost there (pic 4) when the little village comes into view, where onsen type accommodation is available if one wished to stay on the mountain. My first view of the monkeys (pic 5) was that of several scampering over roofs and I am sure the residents’ windows are kept closed. When viewed together with pics 11 and 12, it can be seen that apart from the luxury of their hot springs, the monkeys are living in a challenging physical environment where snow covers the ground for some four months every year.

The remaining photographs feature the stars of the show and present monkeys enjoying the warmth of the pool (pics 7 and 8); sharing each other’s warmth (pic 10); monkeys in pensive mood (pic 14) and posturing pose (pic 15). You may have guessed that pic 9 is one of the dominant males mentioned earlier. A wider shot would have shown him commanding the pool without a care in the world.

In closing, I would like to say hello to Vladina and Jonathan whom I met during my visit and who, I am sure, have been expecting the Snow Monkeys to make an appearance on my blog. Here they are and I hope they bring back happy memories.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Peering through the mist

View from the base

Path to the snow monkey reserve

Almost there

First sighting

The hot pool

Enjoying the warmth – pic 1

Enjoying the warmth – pic 2

King of the pool

Happy couple

Snow monkey country – pic 1

Snow monkey country – pic 2

Community gathering

What are you thinking?

Making a face

Wrapped in mist

Pool with a view

April 19, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 3 Comments

Sayonara Sakura (Kyoto)

Sayonara Sakura is my fourth and final post on the cherry blossom season and I hope readers of this blog have enjoyed the images as much as I have enjoyed sharing them.

Once captured, an image is forever and becomes one of those frozen moments from the infinity that is time. This has allowed me the indulgence of posting cherry blossom themed photographs over four weeks, somewhat longer than the real-life experience.

To conclude this series I have selected photographs linked only by the common factor of cherry blossom. Some photos are personal favourites, whereas others revisit and extend previous themes. Allow me to make a few brief observations on select photos.

All the photos were taken in and around Kyoto, with the first photograph showing the Philosopher’s Path – a walk I made many times and a favourite place of mine in Kyoto. This photo best captures the image of the Path that I carry in my mind.

In an earlier post (March 28, 2014) I featured a number of shots taken at the Heian shrine, where the cherry blossom was simply magnificent. I had reluctantly excluded pics 3 and 4 from that post – an exclusion now remedied.

Pics 8 and 9 should be viewed together in that they show diners at different ends of the culinary spectrum, each enjoying views of nearby cherry blossom whilst dining. On the one hand there is the clean, modern lines of a fast-food establishment (pic 8) and on the other (pic 9), a row of high-end teahouses, which I have seen attended by geisha. Two polar dining experiences linked by the sakura.

Another favourite location is Ryoanji and particularly its highly renowned karesansui within a magnificent earthen wall. At pic 13 I have shown the sakura from the other side of the wall – a personal indulgence.

Those who have visited Kyoto will probably have visited the Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto’s Gion district. Pics 14 and 15 feature the same sakura tree at the top of the steps near the main entrance. Pic 14 is the view that greets visitors on arrival and pic 15 is the reverse view looking out over Kyoto and its surrounding hills.

I recall an earlier visit to Kyoto where I chose to capture the sunset from Kiyomizudera as my final shots of Kyoto. Somehow the final photograph of this blog seems an appropriate way to bid sayonara to the sakura until next year.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Cascading Sakura along Philosopher’s Path

A Kyoto Lunchtime

In the Shade of Sakura

Sakura at Heian Shrine

Hanami along Philosopher’s Path

Garden in Higashiyama

Arashiyama and Beyond

Fast-food and Sakura

Upscale Teahouse and Sakura

Old Sakura in a Kyoto Park

Sakura by Kyoto Canal

Splendid White Blossoms

Ryoanji – the other side of the wall

Sakura at Kiyomizudera

Looking back at Kyoto

April 12, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 6 Comments

Cherry Blossoms Everywhere (Kyoto)

Objects that attract admiration and generate excitement are typically those that have a measure of rarity; yet this does not apply to Japan’s cherry blossoms, except in the sense that the season is short. Indeed, in terms of supply, cherry blossom is ubiquitous. They can be found almost everywhere. In public and private spaces; in avenues of serenely subtle colour and as solitary trees lighting up otherwise desolate places; in urban and rural areas; and in meticulously tended gardens or growing untended in their natural habitat.

Wherever they are found, they enhance the space and draw attention to their surroundings. To demonstrate this I have chosen a selection of photographs taken at various Kyoto locations, which contain two common subjects, namely buildings and cherry blossoms.

The first four photographs featuring old buildings are scenes that have doubtless been enjoyed for many seasons. The welcoming view of the Sakura blossoms framed by the temple entrance (pic 1) is an invitation to enter and enjoy an interlude of quiet contemplation. By contrast, the magnificent Sakura highlighted against the classic dark timbers of old Japanese temple buildings (pic 2) stops one in one’s tracks to enjoy the visual feast. Nevertheless, the sight of blossoms through the temple doors then draws one’s attention inwards.

The Hanami scene (pic 3) is another example of a beautiful Sakura tree, framed in this instance by the structure of the Sanmon Gate, itself the subject of an earlier post (January 27, 2014) where this photograph was previously shown. Completing the sequence of sakura and older buildings is Renge-ji (pic 4), a small temple admired for its gardens and where the Buddha statues appear to be savouring the visual feast within which they reside.

I am unsure as to the history of the old industrial building (pic 5) located near the Keage Incline – a favoured Hanami spot in Kyoto. The building’s proximity suggests it may have been part of the infrastructure for the Lake Biwa canal network, though every time I passed I couldn’t help but imagine a future life as modern loft-style apartments. Residents would wake to a wonderful view at this time of year.

Pics 6 and 7 show a wide and closer shot of Sakura trees lining the canal running alongside Kyoto’s International Exhibition Hall, where the modern architecture and the timeless Sakura coexist harmoniously in yet another example of Japan’s ability to blend the old with the new.

Following is a series of five shots (pics 8 to 12) of private residences alongside the Philosopher’s Path – another popular Hanami location, as well as a pleasant walk at any time. The Sakura show an ability to enhance various architectural styles and building materials, such as timber, corrugated metal and masonry.

This ability to enhance is further shown at pics 13 and 14, where older style buildings are lifted by the neighbouring presence of cherry blossoms in bloom. Finally, at pic 15, a contemporary apartment building is similarly lifted, suggesting that whatever direction future building developments take, there will always be a place for the ubiquitous and inspiring Sakura.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Welcoming Sakura

Inside and Outside Sakura

Framed by Sanmon Gate

Sakura at Renge-ji

Sakura and old industrial building

Sakura lining canal near Exhibition Hall

Sakura near Exhibition Hall

Sakura and wooden house

Sakura and corrugated steel house

Young Sakura Tree

Sakura and modern Japanese style house – pic 1

Sakura and modern Japanese style house – pic 2

Sakura and double storey house

Sakura and old apartment block

Sakura and modern apartment block

Hanami (cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto)

April 4, 2014 by johnliddlephotography 11 Comments

Hanami means to view the cherry blossoms and would be a frequently used word across Japan at the present time as people plan their hanami experiences before the fragile blossoms disappear for another year.

To limit the meaning of hanami to “viewing” is somewhat incomplete, as I believe careful observation of the accompanying images will reveal. Hanami is more of an appreciation and celebration, not only of the blossoms per se; but of life itself and those with whom hanami is shared. To even be a viewer of hanami, as was my position in capturing these photographs, is an uplifting experience.

If I were asked for one word to describe what I observed, the word would be “joy” – a simple yet significant word. When joy is felt, other emotions such as happiness, peacefulness, love and even reverence are brought into play. To think that little pink/white blossoms can evoke such emotions is testament to the power of nature to build the human spirit and is, in my view, an inherent strength of Japanese culture to harness this subtle power for individual and community good.

The photographs were taken at a number of Kyoto locations, though location is insignificant in this instance. Whether located in one of Kyoto’s most sacred or most nondescript locations, the cherry blossom is appreciated. Indeed, I recall thinking during my walks through Kyoto, that the solitary trees one finds in otherwise plain areas may even have the greatest significance.

Let me discuss the photographs and I will try to be brief. The young girl crossing the narrow bridge over the canal (pic 1) is an everyday sight in Kyoto. Add the presence of cherry blossoms and her pink clothing and the image becomes poetic. Similarly, the generations passing on the bridge (pic 2) talks of the timeliness of the season’s appeal and the seasons of life.

Look closely at the faces of the businessman (pic 3) and the father with his adult daughter (my assumption) at pic 4. What do you see? Apart from more pink clothing worn by the daughter (there is a trend here); their faces show appreciation for the object of their gaze. What were they looking at? An old sakura tree, draping its blossoms over the wall of Ryoanji’s famous karesansui (pic 5). The wall alone is an object of beauty, which, during the cherry blossom season, becomes mesmerizing.

Pic 6 illustrates why the Philosopher’s Path is a time-honoured hanami location and further along the path, one finds a group of old friends sharing another hanami season at pic 7.

Hanami can be and is often enjoyed alone, as shown by the young woman (pics 8 and 9) apparently lost in admiration of the season’s blooms. What is she thinking? What is she remembering? What is she wishing for? Only she knows, but look closely at the patterns on her kimono. Could she be wearing her hanami kimono? Whatever the answer to these questions, I sense she will have remembered these frozen moments.

The season is a time for parents and children of all ages. At pic 10 we see a father tenderly supporting the tottering early steps of his daughter, experiencing what may be her first hanami. In years to come, one wonders whether she will be in a photograph such as pic 11, where two women of different generations celebrate another season, again exhibiting tenderness and love.

Communal groups also form in popular locations such as the Sanmon Gate (pic 12), where the steps form ideal viewing platforms. Hanami can even dispel myths. Anyone who thinks the Japanese are always quiet and reserved would change their views after spending time around groups like those at pics 13 and 14. Office juniors are often assigned the task of securing a location for after-work hanami celebrations and from what I observed, their efforts and lonely hours are well rewarded with convivial and loud company.

Finally, it is a season where romance can also bloom and even if short lived, it’s not every day that sharing a takeaway meal on a concrete seat can be an atmospheric experience (pic 15). Happy hanami (pic 16) is intentionally placed last, simply because it is an infectiously happy shot and if we could all have moments like this throughout each year, the world would be a happier place.

Thank you for reading and looking at my personal interpretation of a cherry blossom season in Kyoto. I hope you can see some of what I saw and I’d be delighted if you see and feel much more.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Young girl on bridge

Generations united by hanami

Spellbound at Ryoanji – pic 1

Spellbound at Ryoanji – pic 2

Cherry blossom at Ryoanji

Sakura along the Philosopher’s Path

Another season shared with friends

Lost in admiration – pic 1

Lost in admiration – pic 2

Father and daughter

Mother and daughter

Hanami at Sanmon Gate

After work hanami – pic 1

After work hanami – pic 2

Young couple by canal

Happy hanami

This gallery contains 16 photos

March 28, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 5 Comments

Cherry Blossoms (Kyoto)

My desire to experience a cherry blossom (sakura) season was born when photographing the beautiful autumn colours during my first visit to Japan. At that time the sakura trees were standing bare, yet even then one could imagine the transformation when they bloomed. Although my personal preference is probably for the autumn hues, the visual spectacle of cherry blossoms in bloom is magnificent and the atmosphere created is, of course, unique to Japan.

Cherry blossom season starts in the south in tropical Okinawa around late January and moves gradually north to end in Hokkaido around May. Being a natural phenomena, the season is naturally dependent on weather conditions, hence the interest at this time of year on news reports and websites tracking the appearance of the fragile and delicate blooms.

The viewing season is short – perhaps two weeks or less and it would seem that this symbolic reminder of the cycle of life is what has most contributed to the sakura’s place in the Japanese psyche. Life is temporary and each year the sakura provides a reminder to use our time well and an opportunity to celebrate the gift of life.

When discussing the sakura season with Japanese people, it becomes apparent that many hold special memories of their sakura experiences. I recall asking a Japanese friend what sakura meant to her and she recalled a day in Tokyo where she and her boyfriend were cycling under sakura trees as the petals gently fell to the ground. What was most impressive about the telling of her story was that she was transported back to that moment in time – such is the power of sakura.

It is now that time of year around Japan’s major population centres in central Honshu when new memories will be formed and what better time to share images from the last sakura season. In this and successive posts, I intend to share a series of images depicting different themes of how cherry blossoms present.

For this initial post I have chosen to simply focus on their delicate beauty and invite viewers to remember similar views or imagine being there. My images are drawn from magnificent gardens found within four of Kyoto’s many temples and shrines. The first nine images are scenes from the gardens within the Heian Shrine, which, in my opinion, had the most visually impressive sakura. The peace and tranquility of these gardens was interrupted only by the frequent sighs of appreciation from those savouring the spectacle.

These are followed by three images (pics 10 to 12) from Ryoanji, one of my favourite places in Kyoto, with pic 12 being a particular favourite, where the solitary sakura dominates the landscape. Ninnaji is close to Ryoanji and given that a television station was photographing the blooms on this day, perhaps these images (pics 13 and 14) were indeed taken at the peak time. Understandably, but unfortunately, the trees could only be viewed from walkways and one was denied the pleasure of walking through the tunnels of overhanging branches shown at pic 14.

The final shots (pics 15 and 16) taken at Taizo-in present two quite different views. Whereas pic 16 shows that a lone cherry blossom tree can command attention even within a typically beautiful Japanese garden; pic 15, where sakura blossoms have filled the hollows in the karesansui (Japanese dry garden) is fittingly symbolic of the season.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 1

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 2

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 3

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 4

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 5

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 6

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 7

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 8

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Heian Shrine pic 9

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Ryoanji pic 1

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Ryoanji pic 2

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Ryoanji pic 3

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Ninnaji pic 1

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Ninnaji pic 2

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Taizo-in pic 1

Cherry Blossom – Kyoto – Taizo-in pic 2

March 21, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Nikko – Part 2 (Toshogu and Taiyuan Shrines)

Today’s post is a continuation from my last post on Nikko’s Toshogu and Taiyuan Shrines. Whilst the emphasis is to provide a more comprehensive coverage of significant buildings and their splendour, it is acknowledged that the surface has barely been scratched.

The Yomeimon Gate is arguably the most eye-catching structure within the Toshogu Shrine complex and as can be appreciated from pic 1, the approach up a flight of rather steep stairs certainly focuses visitors’ attention on what lies ahead. Those who take the time to peruse the gate more closely are rewarded with an array of 508 sculptures, a selection of which is shown by pics 2 to 4.

The inner wall extending from each side of the Yomeimon Gate (pic 5) is also heavily decorated with sculptures of flora and fauna. Another interesting sculpture is the Imaginary Elephant (pic 6), which can be seen on the gable of the Kamijinko – the upper of the three sacred warehouses where Samurai-style costumes and Yabusame (archery on horseback) equipment is stored. Keen observers will notice that the Imaginary Elephant differs in appearance from that of real elephants. This reflects the fact that the artisans responsible had never seen a real elephant, hence the description Imaginary Elephant.

The Kamijinko is also shown to the left of the Nakajinko (pic 7), or the middle warehouse of the three sacred warehouses.

In front and to the right of the Yomeimon Gate stands the Drum Tower (pic 8) and the Korean Bell (pic 9), which was dedicated by messengers from Korea to celebrate the birth of Iemitsu’s son, later to succeed his father as the fourth Shogun Ietsuna.

During my travels through Japan I was consistently impressed by the craftsmanship and attention to detail assigned to the roofs of old buildings, which have an inherent beauty independent of the buildings they protect. The examples shown here include a corner section of the Kamijinko roof (pic 10); the Honden roof at the Toshogu Shrine (pic 11); and the Karamon Gate (pic 12).

I could not resist including the detail photo of the doors to the Holy Sutra Library (pic 13), through which is stored volumes of historically significant Buddhist sutra.

Albeit less ornate than the Toshogu Shrine, the Taiyuan Shrine is nevertheless impressive as can be seen from the photographs of the Yashomon Gate (pic 14) and the entry to the Haiden (pic 15).

Apart from being, in my opinion, visually appealing, the old memorial stone (pic 16) I came across within the grounds of the Taiyuan Shrine is somewhat of a mystery. I have asked a number of native Japanese speakers for assistance in translating the inscription, but the old kanji characters are proving difficult to interpret. If anyone can translate the characters into English, their help would be most appreciated.

The final shot is included by way of a segue to my next series of posts, where I will pursue the theme of cherry blossom in keeping with that most joyous of Japanese seasons fast approaching. It is also an appropriate note on which to end this post, where the old structures of Nikko gracefully accommodate the seasonal rebirth of the cherry blossoms – a scene somewhat symbolic of Japan’s ability to accommodate and cherish the coexistence of the old with the new.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Nikko – Approach to Yomeimon Gate

Nikko – Carvings (pic 1)

Nikko – Carvings (pic 2)

Nikko – Carvings (pic 3)

Nikko – Wall Carvings

Nikko – Imaginary Elephant Sculpture

Nikko – Sacred Warehouse – Nakajinko

Nikko – Drum Tower

Nikko – Korean Bell at Toshogu Shrine

Nikko – Kamijinko Roof Detail

Nikko – Toshogu Shrine – Honden Roof Detail

Nikko – Karamon Gate Detail

Nikko – Doors to Holy Sutra Library

Nikko – Yashomon Gate at Taiyuin Shrine

Nikko – Haiden Entry at Taiyuin Shrine

Nikko – Old Memorial Stone

Nikko – Rebirth in an old place

March 12, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 5 Comments

Nikko (Toshogu & Taiyuan Shrines)

Someone told me that Nikko is the place every Japanese person wants to visit at least once. After visiting there twice in different seasons I came to understand why, but I had no idea how their words would resonate on my feeling that this post does not do justice to Nikko’s importance to the Japanese.

In Nikko, all roads lead to the complex including the Toshogu, Futarasan and Taiyuin shrines and it is from this complex that today’s images are drawn. Words that may typically be used to describe Japanese temples and shrines such as subtle and understated do not apply here. There is nothing understated about these shrines. Quite the opposite, yet still their underlying message is that of reverence and respect for those honoured here.

Toshogu is the dominant shrine, as evidenced by the buildings of the Taiyuan Shrine being oriented to face Toshogu as a mark of respect for Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Tokugawa era. As well as being the driving force behind the construction of Toshogu Shrine to honour his grandfather, Iemitsu (the third shogun) is perhaps better known as the shogun who closed Japan to foreign commerce and isolated it from the rest of the world for 200 years.

The tree-lined path to Toshogu Shrine is dominated by Ishidorii (pic 1), a granite torii gate that majestically draws one forward. In my humble opinion, it must surely rank among Japan’s most significant torii. To the left of Ishidorii is the five-storey pagoda (pic 2), where the storeys represent, in ascending order, the elements of earth, water, fire, wind and heaven.

Toshogu’s most famous attraction is perhaps the Sacred Stable (pics 3 and 4), or more specifically the story of stages in a monkey’s life told through a series of carvings on the walls of the building. Since early times in Japan, monkeys have been regarded as guardians of horses, hence their significance to the stable building. The most famous carving is, of course, that of the three wise monkeys, whose message of “hear no evil, speak no evil and see no evil” has been an aspirational refrain of parents through the ages.

Other structures of interest include my favourite, the relatively subdued Rinzo or Holy Sutra Library (pic 5), which houses a collection of valuable Buddhist scriptures; the heavily decorated Yomeimon Gate (pic 6) flanked on each side by statues of the first shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, whose presence remains imposing (pic 7); and the designated national treasure – the Karamon Gate (pic 8).

The heavily wooded setting makes for pleasant walking and throughout the grounds one finds areas of interest such as small roadside shrines (pic 10) and many stone and metal lanterns (pic 9) donated by feudal lords. To walk these grounds with someone steeped in Nikko history would be a pleasure, though the stories behind each building and object may require a lifetime of walks.

Although not as grand as the Toshogu Shrine, the Taiyuan Shrine is no less interesting. Prior to climbing several sets of stairs and passing through a series of gates, one finds The Cistern for Holy Water (pic 11). Water from a nearby stream is channeled down through a system of gutters into a solid granite basin so perfectly aligned that the water evenly overflows each edge. Visitors stop here for purification before proceeding to the Nitenmon Gate, which can be seen in the background.

Taiyuan is built on a fairly steep slope, thus opening up vistas such as those shown (pics 12 and 13) at various points during the climb. Reaching the upper level, one finds the largest building (pic 14), with this view showing the Ainomo or connecting chamber between the Haiden (sanctuary) and Honden (inner sanctuary). Adjacent to the Honden is the Koukamon Gate (pic 15), the final gate behind which lies the Okunoin – the tomb of the third shogun Iemitsu. Neither the Koukamon Gate nor Okunoin are open to the public.

Finally, walking back to central Nikko, one passes the Shinkyo Bridge (pic 16), regarded as one of the three most significant bridges in Japan. The bridge across the Daikyo River was originally built in 1636 (rebuilt 1907) for the use of the Shogun and imperial messengers.

A visit to these sites is at first a visual assault on the senses, such is the splendour and grandeur one encounters. However, the true value is felt by slowing down and allowing Nikko to seep into one’s senses. One can then begin (only begin) to understand why it is so revered by the Japanese people.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)

Nikko – Ishidorii

Nikko – Five Storey Pagoda

Nikko – Sacred Stable

Nikko – Three Wise Monkeys

Nikko – Holy Sutra Library

Nikko – Yomeimon Gate

Nikko – Takugawa Ieyasu

Nikko – Karamon Gate

Nikko – Roadside offerings

Nikko – Lanterns & Cherry Blossom

Nikko – The Cistern for Holy Water

Nikko – Yashomon Gate

Nikko – Lantern Rows

Nikko – Ainomo at Taiyuin Shrine

Nikko – Koukamon Gate

Nikko – Shinkyo Bridge

February 25, 2014
by johnliddlephotography 4 Comments

Crossing Paths with Omikoshi (Tokyo)

This week’s post continues the chaos theme by recounting the day I kept crossing paths with an Omikoshi.

It happened one Sunday when I visited the Nihombashi district in search of old Edo style buildings. As is so often the case the primary objective was trumped by something more interesting. Crossing the bridge over the river I noticed a crowd outside the Mitsukoshi department store and crowds must, of course, be investigated. Drawing closer I could see that the focus of activity was an object I later learned to be a mikoshi, for which omiskoshi is the honorific form.

Anyone who has experienced or seen images of Japanese matsuri (festivals) will be familiar with mikoshi. A brief description is that they are portable Shinto shrines used to transport deities between (say) a main and temporary shrine. They typically resemble a miniature shrine building and are often crowned with a phoenix bird statuette. I don’t know what they weigh, but they are substantial objects and are mounted on rails to be carried by their followers.

What impressed me most was the sense of community and the happy nature of those preparing to transport the mikoshi through the streets of Nihombashi. One often hears that Japanese people are reserved … well this was not the case on this particular Sunday in Nihombashi and everyone I approached welcomed me. Perhaps it helped that I was the only foreigner around.

The photographs are shown in sequence and I hope they communicate the energy of the occasion, which builds as the procession moves. Allow me to draw attention to a few shots. The first person I noticed through the crowd was the gentleman in “Standing Guard” (pic 3). He did not move from his post until the procession started and he looked as if he was indeed guarding his mikoshi. Participation is an equal opportunity as shown by “Women Power” (pic 6) and “Next Generation” (pic 10), where women and children share the load with men of all ages. It was very much a family event and one can imagine the children in these photos being accompanied by their children in years to come.

My favourite shot is “Success” (pic 9), where the men at the front, who had carried the mikoshi from the start showed their joy at reaching the rest stop. Unfortunately, I must apologise for this and other shots being somewhat blurred – the result of my having been drawn into the scrum and being jostled while trying to walk backwards. However, I’m happy to trade some blur for the experience.

There must have been well over a hundred people involved, with fresh people taking over from others in a spirit of seamless cooperation and teamwork. Except of course for the men at the front – they were staying the journey. Throughout the journey the followers chant “wasshoi” over and over in a rather hypnotic rhythm and indeed, it did seem for some people to be somewhat of a spiritual experience. By the way, I believe “wasshoi” means to share a physical load.

From time to time I tried to resume my search for the Edo style buildings, but kept crossing paths with this and other mikoshi. Even when I decided it was time for a refreshment break I still couldn’t escape. Sitting at Starbucks window I had a great view of the mikoshi continuing its journey (pic 15) – they made me feel soft and lazy.

I didn’t find the Edo style buildings, but I think the photos show the day worked out pretty well.

(Please click on any of the following images for an enlarged view.)